Poise, focus, organization, creativity, and attention to detail are some of the qualities that led Kévin Clémenceau to win the latest edition of the AUI Pastry Cup.

He surprised and convinced the jury throughout the three rounds of the competition with his amazing pre-desserts, plated desserts, entremets, and bonbons. In this article, we take a look at the elegant Granny Smith Apple and Asian flavors entremet that he presented during the third round and that was part of the repertoire of the winner’s creations. Apple, almond and vanilla are the protagonists of this dessert.

Granny Smith and asian flavors entremet

granny smith gelee

• 330 g Caraman Apple puree 583101
• 45 g granulated sugar
• 80 g gelatine masse*
• 230 g granny smith brunoise
• 10 g lemon juice
• 1 piece lemon zest
• 1 g Sosa product citric acid 672171
• 15 g butter

In a sauce pan mel the gelatine masse with a part of the puree.
When the gelatin is completely dissolve add to the rest of the puree the lemon juice and zest and the acid citric.
Cut the granny smith brunoise, add 115g of the brunoise raw to the puree.
Cook the other one for a minute in a sauce pan with the butter, then add to the mix.
Pipe out into the first mold insert of the kit, 290g per mold.
Put in a blast freezer.

green mirror icing

• 150 g water
• 300 g glucose syrup
• 300 g granulated sugar
• 200 g condensed milk
• 140 g gelatine masse*
• 300 g Des alpes opal white chocolate
• 8 g Pastry ideal White cocoa butter 586078
• 2 to 4 g Pastry ideal green luster powder colors 586045
• 3 drops Pastry ideal green matte powder colors 586031
• 6 drops Pastry ideal yellow matte powder colors 586028
• 1 drops Pastry ideal brown matte powder colors 586064

In a sauce pan heat to 105C the water, glucose syrup and granulated sugar.
Pour on to the condensed milk, add the gelatin mass, opal chocolate and colorant.
Mix delicately with a hand mixer, without adding some air bubbles.
Reserve in a fridge before to use.
Temper at 26 to 27C for using.

ginger and lemongrass cremeux

• 725 g milk
• 55 g lemongrasse
• 110 g ginger
• 100 g sugar
• 106 g yolk egg
• 40 g «Cream powder» (corn starch)
• 39 g gelatine mass*
• 350 g frozen butter

Cut and put the butter in a freezer.
In a sauce pan put the milk and the lemongrass and boil.
Let the lemongrass infuse for 10 minutes, then add the ginger and boil again.
Let infuse for 10 minutes. Filter the infused milk and cook as a custard.
Out of the heat pour onto the Gelatine mass.
Make a emulsion with the frozen butter, use a hand mixer.
At 30C-32C pipe out in the second insert mold of the kit trinity by silikomart, in two times.
First weight at 300g for each mold then add the granny smith gelee, then shut the mold with 175g.
Put in the blast freezer.

almond streusel

• 50 g brown sugar
• 65 g almond flour
• 50 g all pupourse flour
• 50 g butter
• 1,5 g guerande fleur de sel
• 50 g Sosa product Almond crocanti diced 6772055

Mix all ingredients together in the kitchen aid except the almond crocanti.
When it is crumble enough add the almond crocanti.
Lay down to 3 mm between two parchment paper.
Then cut two rings of 6,7 * 3 inches.
Reserve in the freezer, reshape the top and the size of it by using a microplane.
Then reserve in the freezer until the « montage » of the entremets.

granny smith almond cream

• 90 g butter
• 80 g granulated sugar
• 80 g almond flour 204162
• 80 g eggs
• 170 g granny smith

In a kitchenaid mix butter and granulated sugar, then add the almond flour.
When well mixed add the eggs.
Use the rest of the brunoise cut from the Granny smith gelee and add the chopped granny smith to the almond cream.
Pipe out the mix on the almond streusel between the two rounding mold.
Bake it at 170C for 20 to 25 minutes.
Remove from the mold when possible and reserve in the freezer.

vanilla and lemon bavaroise mousse

• 162 ml milk
• 162 g heavy cream 35%
• 85 g sugar
• 85 g yolk egg
• 3 pieces lemon zests
• 1 pieces Frutta prima original thitian vanilla beans 596102
• 72 g gelatine mass*
• 325 g whipped cream 35%

In a saucepan mix milk and heavy cream 35% add the vanilla bean already scratched and the lemons zests, make it boil.
Infuse for 5 minutes, remove the vanilla bean and the lemons zest.
Then cook as a Anglaise cream, 83C.
Pour onto the gelatin mass, allow to cool down to 24C in a fridge.
Whipped the Cream 35% until it is still soft and smooth.
At 24C mix the Anglaise cream and the whipped cream together.
Pipe out the bavaroise cream into the last mold of the trinity kit, weight 300g and insert the second frozen insert, add 70g of the bavaroise cream and add the almond cream and streusel insert to shut it.
Reserve in the blast freezer until being able to apply the green mirror icing.

white chocolate decors

• qs g Des alpes opal white chocolate
• qs g Pastry ideal White cocoa butter 586078

Tempere the Opal white chocolate and the white cacao butter at 29C.
Make some white chocolate « flames ».
Allow it to crystalize, on a yule log mold.
Make a ring of white chocolate with rodoide plastic paper.

granny smith slices

• 40 g granny smith
• 300 ml water
• 15 g Sosa product Ascorbique acid 672172

Mix the cold water and the ascorbic acid in a bowl.
Cut some nice slices in the apple and plunge it into the mix.
Remove and dry it before to decorate the cake.

Final assembly

• 290 g (amount for one entremets) / 580 g (amount for two entremets) granny smith gelee
• 475 g (amount for one entremets) / 950 g (amount for two entremets) ginger and lemongrasse crémeux
• 370 g (amount for one entremets) / 740 g (amount for two entremets) vanilla and lemon bavaroise mousse
• 190 g (amount for one entremets) / 380 g (amount for two entremets) granny smith almond cream
• 60 g (amount for one entremets) / 120 g (amount for two entremets) almond streusel
• 200 g (amount for one entremets) / 400 g (amount for two entremets) green mirror icing
• 20 to 30 g (amount for one entremets) / 40 to 60 g (amount for two entremets) white chocolate decors
• 10 to 20 g (amount for one entremets) / 20 to 40 g (amount for two entremets) granny smith slices
• 1 g (amount for one entremets) / 2 g (amount for two entremets) golden leaves

Heat the green mirror icing to 27C.
Remove the entremets from the mold.
Glaze both entremets.
Put onto the tray or plate.
Decorate with the white chocolate decoration elements, add the green apple slices and some gold leaves.
Remove 30 minutes before to be serve from the fridge.

You may enjoy this entremets with a glass champagne or a brut cider.

Gelatin mass*= 1g of gelatin for 7g of water, for an easiest way to be precise of the how much gelatin I use in the recipes

Discover here creations of the other two finalists of the competition

The post Granny Smith Apple and Asian flavors entremet by Kévin Clémenceau appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
Greg Mindel’s popular viennoserie course is already a classic at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn. The owner of Neighbor Bakehouse has once again returned to the training center to share his vision of modern viennoiserie, placing the focus of attention on the techniques and cross-utilization of a few base doughs.

Students have worked with puff pastries, chocolate brioche, medium rich brioche and croissant dough, have practiced with a great variety of molding techniques and production methods to create delicious breakfast pastries, and have also discovered the secret of successful products that Mindel sells at his establishment. Among them, this babka swirl, which we detail in the following step-by-step instructions.

Babka swirl

brioche – medium rich

sponge

• 506 g bread flour
• 355 g water (room temperature)
• 5 g Red yest
• 5 g salt

dough

• AN sponge
• 1083 g bread flour
• 39 g salt
• 27 g Gold yest (away from salt)
• 355 g sugar
• 152 g milk
• 338 g egg yolks
• 287 g eggs
• 818 g butter (cold)

Temper milk and eggs for 1/2 hour – 1 hour before mix if winter, leave in cooler when hot.
Add milk, eggs, Sponge into mixer first, then toss in all premixed dries and ¼ sugar.
Mix for 1 ½ minutes, scrape halfway.
Make butter pliable by tenderizing with rolling pin.
Mix for 2-3 minutes until dough starts organizing.
At 3 minutes scrape down, add remaining sugar.
Continue mixing for several minutes. Look for strength, shininess, window pane, not fully developed, add butter, scrape down, squeeze, pulling away from walls, window panes.
Instant read thermometer, 24-26°C (76-78°F) degrees for 45-30 minutes.
Put into oiled black tub, fold NS, EW, roll, roll, set with smooth side up.
Flour 3 white sheet trays, divide dough, de-gas, cover, freeze with lots of air circulation.

Asembly and finishing

Roll boules 38-40g
Fill buns with 40g of custard

chocolate brioche

butter ganache

• 150 g european butter (1 x batch) / 300 g european butter (2 x batch)
• 190 g P125 coeur de Guanaja (1 x batch) / 300 g P125 coeur de Guanaja (2 x batch)

Prepare ganache with European butter and P125 COEUR DE GUANAJA by combining and melting in microwave.
Stir completely to create a smooth ganache.
Cast into ½ sheet tray lined with plastic, place plastic on top and place in cooler to set.

dough

• 671 g bread flour (1 x batch) / 1342 g bread flour (2 x batch)
• 67 2% milk (1 x batch) / 134 g 2% milk (2 x batch)
• 403 eggs (1 x batch) / 806 eggs (2 x batch)
• 10 Gold instant yeast (1 x batch) / 20 Gold instant yeast (2 x batch)
• 15 fine sea salt (1 x batch) / 30 fine sea salt (2 x batch)
• 180 sugar (1 x batch) / 360 sugar (2 x batch)
• 152 european butter (1 x batch) / 304 european butter (2 x batch)
• AN butter ganache (1 x batch) / AN butter ganache

Place eggs and milk into mixing bowl. Combine flour, salt and yeast and add to bowl. Add 20% of sugar.
Mix on low speed for 5-6 minutes (to hydrate all ingredients).
Turn on to medium speed and mix until strength starts to develop (3-5 minutes), then add remaining sugar.
Mix until dough regains strength and window starts to develop.
Add European butter, let incorporate a bit.
Add Butter Ganache.
Continue mixing until dough smoothes out, and an organized window can be pulled (scrape down the bowl a few times as needed).

Asembly and finishing

Fermentation
Bulk ferment for 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on usage and retarding methods.
Shaping
Divide into 50-55g pieces
Pre-shape: boule
Final shape: boule
Proof: approximately 2-2.5 hours
Bake
Bake at 163-168°C (325-335°F) for 8-10 minutes

chocolate Ganache Glaze

• 295 g Guanaja 70% couverture
• 225 g heavy cream
• 20 g glucose syrup
• 500 g Absolu Cristal neutral glaze

Melt Guanaja 70% couverture completely in microwave.
Add cream, glucose syrup and Absolu Cristal to pot and bring to a complete boil.
Prepare a ganache with a spatula to start the emulsion, add all hot liquids and finish with immersion blender.
Be sure to minimize air bubbles when blending.

chocolate streussel

• 940 g butter
• 940 g almond flour
• 900 g bread flour
• 65 g Valrhona cocoa powder
• 800 g sugar
• 175 g brown sugar
• 21 g salt

Dice butter small, place in cooler 2 hours.
In mixer with paddle, combine dry ingredients, add cold butter.
Mix past sandy in texture and smaller clumps start to form (or mix to desired texture).

Final assembly

After all the components are made get ready to build Babka Swirl:
After bulk fermentation place both chocolate and medium brioches into the cooler to set firm.
Bake off the chocolate streusel and cool completely.
Butter molds with clarified salted butter

Steps

Separately, roll out medium and chocolate brioches to the same length and width, 6mm thick,
place on a sheet tray and into the freezer to set firm enough to spread on fillings. Shouldn’t be
frozen.
Approx: width-(10-11”), length- (depends on quantity of dough)

• warm chocolate ganache just enough so it’s easily spreadable but not too fluid as it will become
  messy when shaping.
• take medium brioche from freezer and apply the ganache.
• add a generous amount of streusel over top of ganache, too taste. You can add more as it is
  already cooked.
• place the chocolate brioche over top, like a sandwich.
• with a rolling pin or dowel lightly compress the layers together.
• cut rectangles approx 10”x3.75”. Cut 3 strips equally thick 1.25”. Leave one end not cut
  completely through (approx..5”) as to anchor down the braid.
• make a basic 3-strand braid, then fold in half to fit into the mold.
• adapt the size of cuts to fit the size of the mold

The post Babka swirl chocolate brioche by Greg Mindel appeared first on so good.. magazine.

A recipe from the awarded book “Le Pain Passion” and published in so good.. magazine #17.

Pumpkin butter bread

Croissant dough

• • 400 g strong flour
  • 220 ml fresh full cream milk
  • 50 g sugar
  • 8 g salt
  • 80 g butter from Normandie
  • 10 g dry yeast

For folding

• 300 g butter from Normandie (‘beurre echire’)

Le Pain Passion book cover

Mix all the ingredients except the second butter for 4 minutes at slow speed.
Then mix for 8 minutes at fast speed until the dough no longer sticks to the bowl.
1st refrigerate for 1 hour before rolling flat and making a butter ‘sandwich’.
‘Single turn’ the dough by rolling the dough sandwich out until around 15 mm thick.
Fold the dough sandwich in to make three layers.
2nd refrigerate the dough sandwich for 1 hour.
‘Single turn’ the dough sandwich again.
3rd refrigerate the dough sandwich for 1 hour.
‘Single turn’ the dough sandwich again to finish the process.

Pumpkin paste

• 450 g pumpkin purée
• 150 g Philadelphia cheese
• q.s. salt
• q.s. pepper
• q.s. paprika
• q.s. coriander

Boil the pumpkin and dry it.
Mix the pumpkin purée (450g) with the Philadelphia cheese (150g).
Add the salt, the pepper, the paprika for the colour.
Add the coriander to exhaust the taste.

MONTAGE

Roll out the croissant dough until around 3 mm thick.
Spread the pumpkin paste evenly onto croissant dough sheet.
Add the pumpkin seeds.
Roll the dough like a cinnamon snail.
Fill the cocotte with 3 slices off the roll (2/3 of the mould).
Proofing.
Bake the proofed dough at 180°C for 35-40 minutes.

The post Pumpkin butter bread by Gérard Dubois appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Antonio Bachour shared the spotlight with Carles Mampel during his last pastry course at the L’École Valrhona Brooklyn. Both chefs shared space, techniques and advice in front of a dozen lucky people who could enjoy the technical and creative display they were offered. Tarts, individual portions, small cups, bonbons, travel cakes which, depending on the chef, had some characteristics or others. As a sample, we are left with this piece of the Miami-based chef’s repertoire. A tasty yogurt cheesecake that incorporates refreshing elements such as yogurt and pineapple to get a sweet result which is also suitable for almost any time of the year.

Antonio Bachour dominates style like few others, always attentive to the latest trends to offer fresh presentations without losing one bit of personality. Precisely in this course he offered surprising cakes thanks to a new collection of molds and updated classic ideas like the cheesecake that we present here.

Yogurt Cheesecake with Coconut Whipped Ganache, Compressed Pineapple

yields 24 servings

cheesecake

• 500 g cream cheese
• 224 g granulated sugar
• 28 g whole milk
• 564 g Greek Yogurt
• 2 large whole eggs
• 3 large egg yolks

Pre heat the oven to 104ºC.
In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat cream cheese with sugar until smooth. In a separate bowl, combine eggs, yolks and milk. Add egg and milk mixture to cream cheese and sugar mixture in stages, slowly, scraping the bowl as you go to prevent lumps. Add the greek yogurt and mix in low speed. Pass through a fine mesh strainer. Pour cheesecake into the Bachour Pavoni “Pastel” mold and fill until ¾ of the mold. Bake for 35 minutes; turn off oven, and let sit for another 10-15 minutes. Check to see if done by gently shaking. Chill completely and remove from molds.

coconut whipped ganache

• 180 g coconut puree
• 30 g glucose
• 30 g invert sugar
• 270 g opalys white chocolate
• 520 g whipped cream
• 34 g Malibu

Bring the coconut puree to boil with the glucose and invert sugar, gradually pour over the white chocolate, emulsify with a hand blender. Mix with the cold cream and Malibu. Let set in the refrigerator for 12 hours.

compressed Malibu Pineapple

• 1 pineapple
• 1 vanilla beans
• 250 g Malibu rum

Place all the ingredients into a vacuum pack and seal. Compress the ingredients and marinate in the refrigerator for few hours.

white chocolate coating

• 500 g opalys white chocolate
• 100 g cocoa butter
• 100 g finely coconut flakes

Melt chocolate and cocoa butter to 45ºC, temper to 29ºC.
Dip each cheesecake into the white chocolate coating and sprinkle coconut flakes around it.

Assembly

Whip the coconut whipped ganache to medium peak. Pipe coconut panna cotta on top the cheesecake. Decorate with compressed pineapple decorate with some chocolate garnish.

The post Yogurt, coconut and pineapple cheesecake by Antonio Bachour appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Text: Reiko Matsuno / Photos: Noriko Carlow

Breathing in fresh air and listening to streams and leaves of trees waving, you don’t believe that it’s just an hour away north from Tokyo on the bullet trains. Karuizawa is a well-known first-class villa area and a fine destination for many who wish to be in close contact with nature and relax in the weekend.

Hoshino Resorts Hotel Bleston Court sits in the wood looking up the trees where guests stay in the stylish cottages dotted in the woods. The Lounge in the main building that also houses the reception and a restaurant has a relaxing view of the garden. Here you can indulge in the beauty of nature and a Seasonal Dessert Course by Nobuhiro Koto, chef pâtissier of the hotel. Chefs in Japan should have acute sense of the season and bring it to every work or dish they create. Four seasons and twelve months are usual themes they consider for their creation, but the seasonal ingredients Koto uses often change as if there were more than 20 seasons in Karuizawa.

‘It’s my latest version of tarte au citron. Fortunately, we have many farmers in Nagano who enthusiastically grow fruits and vegetables that are still rare in Japan and Myer Lemon is one of those, which is grown in southern Nagano. I make two different types of cream with this lemon, taking advantage of its orange-like flavor and taste. Between the lemon creams is lemon soufflé made with fresh cheese of BOSQUESO, an artisan cheese shop. I use lemon hollowed out, instead of tart crust. I add rosemary and verbena to associate with lush forest in Karuizawa.’

Lemon, Lemon Verbena

rosemary crumble

• 100 g butter
• 90 g granulated sugar
• 100 g flour
• 100 g almond powder
• 5 g rosemary

Put all the ingredients in Robot-coupe and blend until it resembles breadcrumb. Bake at 160℃ for about 12 minutes.

lemon crumble

• 90 g whole egg
• 160 g granulated sugar
• 6 g corn starch
• 125 g lemon juice
• 3 g gelatin
• 160 g butter

Combine the egg with the granulated sugar, corn starch and lemon juice. Cook thoroughly while bringing to a boil and remove from the heat. Add the gelatin hydrated with 15g water and add the butter when the temperature of the mixture decreases to 40ºC. Whisk with a hand-held blender.

lemon soufflé

• 80 g egg yolks
• 80 g granulated sugar
• 50 g corn starch
• 225 g yogurt
• 225 g fresh cheese “MIMAKI” from BOSQUESO
• 3 g lemon zest
• 120 g egg whites
• 60 g granulated sugar

Combine the egg yolk with the granulated sugar and corn starch. Add the yogurt, fresh cheese and lemon zest. Whisk the egg whites and 60g of granulated sugar until stiff peaks form. Combine the meringue with the cheese mixture. Pour into 4-cm Flexi Pan and bake at 190℃ for about 10 minutes.

lemon Chantilly

• 100 g lemon cream
• 300 g fresh cream

Combine the Lemon Cream with whipped fresh cream.

lemon verbena meringue

• 80 g water
• 15 g lemon verbena
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 120 g egg whites

Soak the lemon verbena in tepid water to infuse and strain. Add the granulated sugar and heat to 118℃. Beat the egg whites and add the syrup until stiff peaks form.

Decorations

Cut the upper part of lemons and remove the flesh to make lemon ‘cups’.
Put some crumble at the bottom of the lemon and pipe the Lemon Cream.
Place the Lemon Soufflé and pipe the Lemon Cream and Lemon Chanty.
Top with the meringue and brown it with a gas burner.
Arrange leaves of lemon verbena.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #18

The post Tarte au citron, Lemon Verbena by Nobuhiru Koto appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
One of the last figures to pass through the classrooms of the L’École Valrhona Brooklyn has been Nicolas Botomisy, Valrhona Corporate Pastry Chef North America, who has deployed his talent in developing plated desserts with French style and an Asian twist.

Attendees have been able, among other things, to practice techniques such as tempering or ganache, learn the creation process of the components behind each plated dessert, and discover new approaches to achieve specific textual effects.

In order to share his creative philosophy in the plating of desserts of this chef linked to Valrhona, creations like this Oriado Grapefruit show the display of several elements in which the personality of a chocolate of origin comes into action with the citrus freshness of grapefruit and the balance of a cream (custard) infused with Mexican vanilla.

Photos: Alex Ayer Photography

Oriado Grapefruit Mexican Vanilla

candied pink grapefruit

• AN fine sea salt
• 400 g water
• 400 g sugar
• 400 g pink grapefruit

Wash and carefully brush the grapefruits.
Peel grapefruits with a thin knife, making sure to only cut a thin layer of the white skin.
Simmer these grapefruit skins in water for about 10 minutes. Drain and repeat this process twice. Then, cover with 1000 g of water and add 250 g of sugar per litre of water. Leave to simmer for about 15 minutes. Add another 250 g of sugar and renew the operation until 1 kg of sugar is mixed with 1L of water. Candying the slices like this will make the skins nearly transparent and most importantly very tender.
Set aside and store in the fridge. Drain before use.

grapefruit vanilla sherbet

• 40 g milk powder
• 1 ea Tahitian vanilla bean (scraped)
• 450 g water
• 120 g powdered glucose (bloomed)
• 480 g sugar
• 10 g sorbet stabilizer
• 1000 g grapefruit juice

Infuse the scraped vanilla bean in the boiled water for about 10 minutes.
Take a little amount of the sugar, about 10% and stir well with the sherbet stabilizer; at 30°C (86°F) add the remaining sugar and powdered glucose.
At 45°C (113°F) add the sugar-stabilizer mixture.
Pasteurize the whole thing at 85°C (185°F) for 2 minutes then cool the mixture down quickly to 4°C (39°F).
Mix with the grapefruit juice.
Leave to maturate the mix for at least 4 hours at 4°C (39°F).
Put into an ice cream machine and store at -15°C (5°F) until service.

grapefruit soft jelly

• 55 g Absolu Cristal Neutral Glaze
• 3 g grapefruit zest
• 210 g grapefruit juice
• 12 g powdered gelatin (bloomed)
• 60 g water

Process together the grapefruit juice, the zests and the Absolu Cristal.
Bloom the gelatin with the water.
Take a little amount of the grapefruit juice mixed with the Absolu Cristal and heat it with the gelatin.
Once the gelatin is melted process the mixture again.
Set aside in the refrigerator until the gelatin starts to set.

cigarette dough

• 8 g vanilla extract
• 168 g egg white
• 160 g pastry flour
• 160 g confectioner’s sugar
• 160 g butter

Blend all ingredients together while cold.

basic custard cream

• 160 g egg yolks
• 400 g whipping cream
• 400 g milk
• 80 g sugar

Bring the cream to a boil with the milk and pour the mixture over the egg yolks, previously mixed (but not beaten) with the sugar.
Cook the mixture at 82/84°C (180/183°F) until it coats the back of a spoon.
Strain through a wire chinois and use immediately, or cool rapidly and set aside in a refrigerator.

grapefruit oriado crémeux

• 850 g basic custard cream
• 20 g invert sugar
• 5 g grapefruit zest
• 460 g Oriado 60% couverture
• 200 g grapefruit juice

After straining the hot custard, add the hot grapefruit juice and invert sugar.
Gradually pour over the chopped ORIADO 60% couverture, stirring with a rubber spatula (as for a ganache) so as to obtain a smooth, shiny and elastic texture. Finish with an immersion blender, taking care not to introduce air and working at a temperature above 35°C (95°F) (45°C [113°F] maximum). This method ensures that the creamy texture remains supple even after freezing and thawing.

Assembly and finishing

• AN crunchy 50% almond/hazelnut praline

Put all the components in a harmonic way on the plate.

The post Oriado, grapefruit, and Mexican vanilla plated dessert by Nicolas Botomisy appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Russia, France, and Canada have marked the career of Elena Krasnova, owner of the pastry shop Mon Paris Patisserie, located in a new area in Vancouver.

Her philosophy is based on using the best fresh ingredients, with the least amount of sweetness and fat possible, to produce pieces that seduce “at first sight” and that closely follow the tradition of French patisserie.

Her personal style is reflected in this dessert that reproduces the experience of a classic cup of tea with raspberries in a sweet bite.

“There are great teas with red berry bouquet, and I found it interesting to transfer such sensation to a cake”

Raspberry tea

raspberry confit

• 600 g raspberry purée
• 200 g sugar
• 20 g pectin
• 28 g gelatin mass
• 480 g frozen raspberries

Heat the raspberries and raspberry purée with sugar and pectin till it boils. Pour over the gelatin mass. Mold at the bottom of the desired molds at 10 mm. Freeze overnight.

biscuit

• 350 g almond paste
• 2 g salt
• 242 g eggs
• 6 g Earl Grey tea
• 25 g almond flour
• 52 g starch
• 130 g melted butter

Beat the first three ingredients to a smooth batter. Grind the tea in the food processor to a powder. Add the sifted almond flour to the first ingredients, together with the starch and tea powder. Finally add the melted butter. Spread to 5 mm thick on the baking sheet lined with paper. Cook at 180ºC in a ventilated oven for 10 minutes.

mousse with Earl Grey

• 40 g gelatin mass
• 200 g milk
• 10 g Earl Grey tea
• 60 g sugar
• 300 g cream

Infuse the tea in the hot milk for 15 minutes. Filter and rescale the milk to 200 g again. Heat the milk and combine with the gelatin mass. Cool down to 30ºC. Combine with the semi-whipped cream.

white chocolate glaze

• 250 g water
• 500 g glucose
• 500 g sugar
• 330 g condensed sweet milk
• 230 g gelatin mass
• 500 g white chocolate
• red color or white color

Heat the water, glucose and sugar till it boils. Pour over the gelatin mass, white chocolate and condensed milk. Mix. Leave in the fridge overnight. Use at 40ºC (the red one).

Assembly

Assemble the dessert in the desired silicone molds.
Pour just 1/4 of the raspberry confit in the mold and freeze it.
Then continue with the mousse and the biscuit.
Freeze overnight.
Remove from the mold and glaze with the red glaze at 40ºC.
Color a little bit of the white chocolate glaze with titanium dioxide to receive a brighter white color glaze.
Cool this glaze to 25ºC.
Place into a piping bag and pipe on top of the red glazed desserts.

You will also find the Dolce’s recipe in so good #18

The post Raspberry tea with Earl Grey mousse by Elena Krasnova appeared first on so good.. magazine.

The creamy and cold textures that once ruled authoritatively in the creations of the leading pastry chefs, gradually give way to other specialties in which crispier textures predominate, as well as more classic formats and products that ultimately must be chewed. Aware of this trend, Francisco Migoya subverts the classic format of cake with cream on the outside and crispy base inside, to bring that baked dough to the outside. An amazing resource that turns cakes inside out without giving up an elegant and impactful result at the same time. In so good #19 he shares three works we see how a gingerbread cake, a vanilla crunch and a pound cake become the absolute protagonists of some cakes that celebrate the doughs. A celebration perhaps in honor of Modernist Bread, the powerful book that Franscico Migoya has finally put on sale and that, currently, is probably the most exhaustive review of bread and everything that surrounds it, historically, scientifically and technically.

Gingerbread cake with caramel mousse and butternut squash butter

gingerbread cake

• 85 g butter, room temperature
• 87 g sugar
• 50 g eggs, room temperature
• 305 g molasses
• 140 g bread flour
• 140 g pastry flour
• 7.7 g baking soda
• 0.9 g salt
• 5.9 g ginger powder
• 0.5 g clove powder
• 0.2 g cinnamon powder
• 200 g water *

All ingredients must be at room temperature. Cream the butter and sugar together until smooth. Add the eggs in 3 additions; stop the mixer and scrape the bowl and the paddle down in between additions. Slowly add the molasses on low speed and mix until homogenous. Add sifted dry ingredients and mix on low speed until a thick and smooth batter forms. Add the room temperature water slowly stopping to scrape 2-3 times. If batter is broken turn on speed 3 and heat with a torch until appearance improves. Pour onto a square silicone cake pan and bake at 160°C/320°F until fully baked. Once baked, cool off completely and remove from the pan. Cut the sponge cake into 1.25 cm / 0.5 inch cubes and dry overnight in a dehydrator.

* ERRATUM: In the printed version there was missing the amount of water. Actually it is 200 grams

butternut squash butter

• 650 g butternut squash, peeled, gutted, diced
• 110 g butter
• 240 g sugar (can use brown sugar or maple sugar instead)
• 2 g cinnamon, ground
• 7.5 g gelatin sheets, silver, bloomed in cold water

In a 4-qt sauce pot, combine all of the ingredients except for the gelatin and bring to a boil. Once the mixture has
come to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook until the squash is tender and broken down, about 2 hours. Stir
often and reduce the heat if necessary to prevent scorching. Once you obtain a thick paste, remove the vanilla bean. Add the bloomed gelatin and puree until smooth in a blender or using a hand-held blender. Portion into a 4 inch/ 10 cm wide x 1 inch /2.5 cm deep metal ring. Even out the top and freeze. Once frozen, remove the butternut squash butter from the ring using a torch or heat gun and reserve well wrapped and frozen until needed.

Note
The final recipe calls for twice the amount this yields because there will be lot of evaporation that occurs during
the cooking process. If you have more than fills a ring, fill as many rings as needed and reserve frozen for future cakes.

caramel mousse

• 185 g sugar
• 125 g eggs
• 8.5 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 475 g heavy cream

Make a dry caramel with the sugar. In a separate pot, bring butter and heavy cream to a simmer. Once the sugar has caramelized and is a dark amber brown, slowly stir in the hot butter and cream using a whisk. Allow to cool down completely. Once cool, stir the eggs in, and warm over a hot water bath to 145ºF/63ºC. Meanwhile, whip the heavy cream to medium stiffness. Fold 1/3 of the whipped heavy cream into the egg and caramel base. Then fold half of the whipped cream that is left, and once it has been completely folded in, fold the rest of the heavy cream in.

Assembly

Combine the gingerbread cake cubes with a mixture of 350 g melted white chocolate and 35 g vegetable oil.
Line the interior of a silicone mold with the cubes and allow to set in refrigeration.
Any left over, puree in a blender until smooth and spread thinly and evenly (2 to 3 mm) over a flat surface lined with a silicone mat or plastic acetate sheet.
Freeze and cut out discs that are the same size as the base of the silicone cake mold. This disc will be the base of the cake. Reserve frozen. Make the caramel mousse (recipe below), and fill the mold with the cake cubes to 1/3 of the way.
Insert the frozen butternut squash butter disc to the center of the caramel mouse and push down.
Fill the rest of the silicone mold with more caramel mousse to the top and even it out with an offset spatula.
Place a frozen disc of the pureed cake cubes mix on top of the caramel mousse and press down gently to make it even.
Freeze the cake completely and unmold. Spray with orange colored cocoa butter.
Decorate with rice paper leaves.

You will also find these two recipes in so good #19

The post Gingerbread cake with butternut squash butter by Francisco Migoya appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Christophe Adam has conquered the world with l’Éclair Génie. an original pastry concept where he offers eclairs full of fantasy which, beyond their appearance, satisfy with their flavor.

The chef, who defines himself as a workaholic, has made a hole in his tight schedule to present fresh, simple desserts in so good #19, desserts “that remind me of when I was an apprentice”.

Creations like this giant meringue where he has placed special attention to flavor and textures.

” I realized a ‘giant meringue’ in the idea of a vacherin revisited, I was really inspired following a fantastic dinner at Christophe Hardiquest‘s restaurant in Brussels”

Giant meringue

homemade rum ice cream

• 210 g whole milk
• 45 g UHT cream, 35% fat
• 60 g confectioners’ sugar
• 10 g non-fat milk powder
• 15 g Agrimontana ice cream base 50
• 200 g homemade rum

Mix the powdered ingredients and add to the liquids, except alcohol. Blend. Allow to mature for 12 hours. Before churning, add the rum and mix.

meringue

• 280 g egg whites
• 220 g superfine sugar

Temper the egg whites with the help of a bain marie. Preheat the oven to 110ºC. Whip the egg whites while adding the sugar in 3 additions.
Prepare and grease 6-cm-wide hemisphere molds. Use a flat 6-mm tip. Pipe the meringue balls in the mold upside down. Bake at 110ºC for 30 minutes and at 90ºC for 2 hours. Unmold the hemispheres, cut half of them into 2/3 and stick to the other hemisphere using your fingers to mold. Then, turn off the oven and allow the meringue to dry completely for 2 to 3 hours. Reserve in a drying oven.

rum-soaked grapes

• 40 g white grapes
• q.s. homemade rum

Warm up the rum and soak the grapes in it until perfectly inflated.

raisin paste

• 150 g Zante currants
• water

Bring the water to a boil, allow the raisins to inflate for 1 hour and then drain off. Mix until a paste is obtained.

praliné croustillant

• 90 g butter
• 35 g confectioners’ sugar
• 1 g fine salt
• 35 g almond powder
• 85 g flour t55
• 5 g cocoa powder
• 15 g whole eggs
• 140 g hazelnut gianduja
• q.s. gold

Mix the tempered butter with the confectioners’ sugar, almond powder, flour and cocoa powder. Finish by gradually adding the eggs until a smooth dough is obtained. Laminate to a thickness of 5 mm and bake for 12 minutes. Reserve in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Allow the gianduja to melt.
Crush the croustillant and mix with the melted gianduja.

other

• 15 u fresh black grapes
• 15 u white grapes
• purple shiso
• green shiso
• 5 u kumquats

Montage

Recipe for 5 desserts

• 350 g homemade rum ice cream
• 250 g meringue
• 40 g rum-soaked grapes
• 150 g raisin paste
• 400 g praliné croustillant
• 15 u fresh black grapes

Make the ice cream mix and meringue the previous day. Churn the ice cream while adding the rum. Make the raisin paste, rum-soaked grapes and praliné croustillant.
For the assembly, fill the bottom of each meringue with 15 g of raisin paste and then the rum ice cream. Following this, add an additional 15 g of raisin paste and the rum-soaked grapes.
For the décor, peel and cut the grapes into quarters. Add the shiso sprouts, the croustillant, the rum-soaked grapes and some kumquat slices.

You will also find these three recipes in so good #19

The post Giant meringue by Christophe Adam appeared first on so good.. magazine.

He is one of the great icons of cyber pastry, with half a million followers on Instagram. His creations influence, set trends, and are a mirror for an entire army of professionals and amateurs. But behind a fantastic photo album on the internet, the French chef Amaury Guichon represents vocation, rigor, perseverance and a professional attitude, all essential virtues to achieve success in the trade.

During his training he already stood out, as evidenced by the achievement of his gold medal for ‘Best Apprentice of France’. He was executive chef of Victor&Hugo in Paris, responsible for Lenotre shop in Cannes, and assistant executive pastry chef of Jean Philippe Patisserie in Las Vegas. Now, as an independent consultant, he travels the world showing his work in schools and advising companies in the sector.

In his creative process, Guichon seeks to differentiate himself, to establish his own canon. He himself explains it: ‘I try to create things that haven’t been done before. I am often inspired by different materials and techniques in fields of work such as clay, wood sculpting, furniture fashion design, glass blowing, so you will see my interpretation of that in pastry. I also like to trick the mind by creating things that look like objects from day to day, such as the watch, egg, compass. I’m looking for people to see my products and say “it’s too pretty… I don’t want to eat it”.

‘For lovers only, it is a two-person sized pastry. It is extremely glam looking with the deep red choux. Inside it, you will find a fresh strawberry candy compote, a citrusy raspberry light pasty cream, a crunchy craquelin, and vanilla mascarpone whipped cream’

We also ask the chef about the future of the trade and high-end pastry and chocolate making as a concept and offers us a somewhat disconcerting yet not completely implausible reflection: ‘I think high end is getting huge and people are willing to spend a little bit more to get that kind of pastry experience. However, since chocolate is getting rarer and our world is very industrial, I think our artisanal and crafty profession might disappear in 15 years. I obviously hope this is not the case.’ We also hope so.

Guilty pleasure

red craquelin

• 210 g all-purpose flour
• 200 g brown sugar
• q.s. red color
• 160 g butter

Make a crumble with all the ingredients, then sheet it thin.

pâte à choux

• 250.45 g milk
• 250.45 g water
• 10.04 g sugar
• 10.04 g salt
• 275.89 g all-purpose flour
• 200.89 g butter
• 502.23 g eggs

In a pot, boil the milk, water, sugar, salt and butter together. Add the flour sifted progressively, then the eggs with a whisk. Pipe the dough in a dome, add the pâte à choux crust on top and bake it at 195°C/383°F for 25 minutes.

candied strawberry

• 108 g sugar
• 24 g glucose
• 12 g lemon juice
• 36 g strawberry puree
• 24 g cranberry juice
• 1 u vanilla bean
• 4 g pectin NH
• 300 g fresh strawberry

Cook the strawberry puree, cranberry juice, sugar, glucose and pectin to 108°C/226°F, then cook the strawberry a little and add the lemon juice. Cool down immediately.

raspberry pastry cream

• 750 g raspberry puree
• 75 g sugar
• 75 g yolks
• 30 g pastry cream powder
• 150 g cream

Cook the strawberry puree, cranberry juice, sugar, glucose and pectin to 108°C/226°F, then cook the strawberry a little and add the lemon juice. Cool down immediately.

mascarpone whip

• 6 g powdered gelatin (knox)
• 28 g water
• 96 g sugar
• 96 g cream
• 288 g mascarpone
• 480 g cream
• 2 u vanilla bean

Hydrate gelatin with water. Heat first cream, sugar and infuse with vanilla beans for 30 min. Add gelatin to infused cream and pour over mascarpone and burr mix. Combine with last cream and burr mix again, strain and chill overnight.

Decor

• q.s. fresh strawberry

Montage

Fill your puff pastry with the raspberry pastry cream then insert the strawberry compote in it.
Glue both choux with a little bit of Mascarpone whipped cream, then nicely pipe all around the choux add the fresh fruit decor and chocolate decor.

You will also find these three recipese in so good #19

The post Guilty pleasure pate à choux by Amaury Guichon appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
At the Peninsula Hotel Beiing, French executive pastry chef Frederic Moreau offers an interesting version of a sweet from his home country, le nougat. The most famous is that of the city of Montélimar, made with egg white, honey, and almond, and has a look and taste similar to Spanish turron, more so than the Italian torroncino.

Moreau incorporates ingredients such as chocolate that, as he explains in his interview, are very successful in China, in addition to lime sauce, vanilla pastry cream, or coffee ice cream, among other components. The result is a spongy-textured dessert in which an 11 cm diameter ring strip of tempered dark chocolate stands out.

Le Nougat

coffee ice cream

• 80 g coffee bean
• 620 g milk
• 150 g cream
• 24 g trimoline
• 50 g glucose powder
• 120 g sugar
• 80 g milk powder 26%
• 10 g ice cream stabilizer
• 5 g coffee powder

Bring everything to a boil, burr mix, strain. Let it rest overnight in cooler. Next day burr mix, spin. Keep in freezer.

nougat

• 345 g honey acacia
• 145 g water
• 435 g sugar
• 90 g glucose
• 72 g egg whites
• 15 g sugar
• 90 g mycryo
• 200 g almond
• 200 g hazelnut
• 70 g pistachio

Toast almond and hazelnut at 150c until golden brown. Toast green pistachios at 150c for 5 min. Start cooking sugar, water and glucose until 152c. At 110c start cooking honey until 130c. Pour honey first, then sugar mixture. Add mycryo, then nuts. Sheet out between 2 sheets.

vanilla cream pastry

• 162 g milk
• 108 g cream
• 4 g vanilla bean
• 56 g sugar
• 54 g egg yolks
• 13 g ap flour
• 8 g cornstarch
• 3 g gelatin
• 15 g water for gelatin
• 85 g butter

Bring to a boil milk, cream, bean and sugar. Temper into yolks, flour and cornstarch. Cook for a minute, add gelatin. Robot coupe with butter. Keep in fridge.

nougat mousse 1 frame

• 480 g pastry cream vanilla
• 11 g gelatin
• 56 g water for gelatin
• 290 g nougat
• 550 g cream

Warm up pastry cream to 50c, add gelatin. Add nougat, robot coupe until small pieces at 35c fold soft whipped cream pour into 40x60cm frame. Freeze. Cut strips 8.5cm x 3cm.

dark chocolate mousse

• 95 g milk
• 113 g cream
• 113 g glucose
• 226 g dark chocolate 70%
• 5 g gelatin
• 25 g water for gelatin
• 285 g cream

Bring milk, cream and glucose to 40c, add gelatin and chocolate, burr mix, at 35-40c combine with soft whipped cream, cast in tube moulds. Freeze.

lime sauce for 12 ppl

• 137 g cream
• 137 g milk
• 19 g sugar
• 2 g algin
• 5 g lime zest

Bring cream, milk and zest to a boil strain, add sugar and algin, burr mix until thick, place in cooler, once cold burr mix again, adjust with milk if necessary
place in squeeze bottle.

croustillant green

• 225 g fondant
• 150 g glucose
• 150 g white chocolate zephyr
• 4 g green colour

Bring fondant and glucose to 150c, add green colour and melted chocolate. Spread on baking paper. Once cool, ground it to powder, sift over leaf stencil and silpat, bake at 150c until lightly melted while still hot give a curve keep in airtight container.

caramelized hazelnuts

• 25 g water
• 87 g sugar
• 1 g sea salt
• 250 g hazelnuts
• 12 g cocoa butter

Toast hazelnuts at 150c until golden brown cook to 120c water, sugar. Add toasted nuts, mix until sandy. Add cocoa butter and sea salt cool down. Keep in airtight container.

glaze dark chocolate

• 150 g cream
• 150 g water
• 350 g neutral glaze
• 75 g milk chocolate 40%
• 200 g dark chocolate 70%
• 8 g gelatin
• 40 g water for gelatin

Bring to a boil cream, water. Add gelatin. Add melted chocolate, add neutral glaze. Keep in cooler. Next day melt down to 25-30ºc. Mix glaze.

pecan streusel

• 100 g pecan chopped
• 100 g cake flour
• 100 g sugar
• 100 g butter
• 1 g sea salt

Bring to a boil cream, water. Add gelatin. Add melted chocolate, add neutral glaze. Keep in cooler. Next day melt down to 25-30ºc. Mix glaze.

Assembly

Cut strips of nougat mousse 9 x 3 cm. Spray with mix of chocolate and cocoa butter. Cut chocolate mousse tube at 8 cm long. Melt down dark chocolate glaze at 30ºc and dip chocolate mousse in it. Place it on top of a nougat mousse dipped in hazelnut oil. Place a ring of chocolate on the plate. Add the nougat mousse bar. Add green leaf over. Add caramelized nuts. Pipe dots of lime sauce. Place streussel and quenelle coffee ice cream over.

The post Le Nougat with nougat mousse, coffee ice cream and lime sauce by Frederic Moreau appeared first on so good.. magazine.

The kalamansi is one of the highlights at Le Chocolat, one of Frederic Moreau’s desserts, executive pastry chef of the Peninsula Hotel Beijing.

The kalamansi is a small exotic fruit native to Southeast Asia, widely used in Filipino cuisine, which adds a citrusy and original touch to dishes. In this creation made up of two pieces, it acquires a special relevance as a flavor enhancer, both in the shape of a gelee with dark chocolate and in the form of a cream filling the Basque cake. This dish is another of the creations that French chef Frederic Moreau shared with Santiago Corral during his recent visit.

Le Chocolat

gelee dark chocolate kalamansi 

12 ppl

• 15 g kalamansi puree
• 162 g milk
• 23 g sugar
• 1 g pectin NH
• 38 g dark chocolate 70%

Mix sugar, pectin NH and milk together, let it set for 15 min. Bring it to a boil. Bring to a boil kalamansi puree and combine everything with melted chocolate. Burr mix, place in piping bag, place in cooler.

mousse dark chocolate

12 ppl

• 120 g egg whites
• tt g cream of tartar
• 100 g glucose
• 170 g milk
• 150 g dark chocolate 70%

Warm up to 40ºC whites with glucose, cream of tartar, whip to soft peak. Mix warm milk and melted chocolate together, burr mix at 35-40ºC. Fold chocolate in soft peak meringue. Pour in plate at 40-45 g each. Keep in fridge.

ice cream chocolate

• 625 g milk
• 60 g trimoline
• 75 g cream
• 33 g milk powder
• 80 g sugar
• 20 g glucose powder
• 10 g ice cream stabilizer
• 100 g dark chocolate 70%

Bring milk, trimoline, cream, milk powder, sugar, glucose and stab to 50ºC. Add chocolate and bring to 85ºC. Burr mix and let it rest overnight. Next day burr mix and spin.

caramelized hazelnuts

• 25 g water
• 87 g sugar
• 1 g sea salt
• 250 g hazelnuts
• 12 g cocoa butter

Toast hazelnuts at 150ºC until golden brown. Cook to 120ºC water, sugar. Add toasted nuts, mix until sandy. Add cocoa butter and sea salt. Cool down. Keep in airtight container.

tuile milk chocolate

• 215 g fondant
• 143 g glucose
• 143 g milk chocolate 40%

Cook fondant and glucose to 150ºC. Add melted chocolate, pour over silpat. Once cool down process in robot coupe and ground spice it to obtain a thin powder sift over silpat, with a round cutter imprint the powder. Place pieces of hazelnut in the middle of these circles. Bake at 180ºC until lightly melted. When cool remove with a small spatula. Place in a airtight container.

cream kalamansi

12 ppl

• 127 g kalamansi juice
• 80 g sugar
• 150 g eggs
• 4 g gelatin
• 20 g water for gelatin
• 2 g vanilla bean
• 114 g butter

Bring to a boil juice, sugar and bean temper eggs. Add butter, process at robot coupe, strain. Place in pipping bag. Keep in cooler.

dough gateau basque

12 ppl

• 165 g butter
• 140 g brown sugar
• 80 g almond powder
• 66 g eggs
• 200 g AP flour
• 2,5 g baking powder
• 5 g orange extract
• 5 g rum

Cream sugar and butter, add almond powder, add eggs, orange and rum. Add flour and baking powder, sheet out to 4 mm thick. Foncage in a 7 cm ring mould, pipe a center of kalamansi cream, cover with dough to close. Bake at 150ºC for 45 minutes. Once baked, brush the sides with egg whites and roll into sugar. Bake in oven at 150ºC for 2 minutes.

foam hazelnut for 1 ISI bottle

• 450 g milk
• 30 g sugar
• 1 g xantham gum
• 5 g gelatin
• 25 g water for gelatin
• 50 g hazelnut paste 100%

Bring to a boil milk, burr mix over gelatin, water, xantham and hazelnut paste. Cool down, place in large ISI bottle.

Assembly

Pipe chocolate kalamansi gelee in middle of the dark chocolate mousse, cover with hazelnut foam, add pieces of caramelized hazelnuts, cover with hazelnut croustillant, fill gateau basque with kalamansi cream, cover with sugar.

The post Le chocolat with gelee dark chocolate kalamansi by Frederic Moreau appeared first on so good.. magazine.

To create a dessert, Richad Long, Executive Pastry chef for The Ritz Carlton in Hong Kong, has a successful formula: premium ingredients, different textures, aesthetics, and a lot of flavor with little sugar. Elements which are combined in this beautiful entremet that can be tasted in this luxurious hotel, one of the highest hotels in the world. Our correspondent Santiago Corral was able to recently check out this chef’s creative philosophy and try this delicious cake with chocolate and Amaretto himself.

Hazelnut praline

hazelnut Joconde (for 1 tray 60 x 40 cm cake) 

12 ppl

• 400 g hazelnut powder
• 400 g icing sugar
• 115 g cake flour
• 560 g whole eggs
• 730 g fresh eggs white
• 180 g sugar
• 90 g melted butter

Mix hazelnut powder, icing sugar, cake flour and whole eggs in the mixing bowl with paddle attached till fluffy. In another bowl, mix egg white and sugar till stiff.
Gently fold the meringue into hazelnut powder mixture last follow by the cold melted butter. Spread 800 g on the 60X40cm baking sheet (total 4 trays) and bake at 230°C till golden brown, the sponge should moist and soft.

crunchy Feuilletine (for 1 tray 60 x 40 cm)

• 625 g pure hazelnut paste (100%)
• 175 g milk chocolate (40%)
• 310 g paillete feuilletine

Melt the hazelnut paste and milk chocolate on the double boiler. Fold in the crunchy feuilletine, mix well. Spread evenly on hazelnut Joconde at 1.000 grams per tray.

hazelnut Praline Cream (each layer 800 g for 3 layers 60 x 40cm

• 500 g liquid cream
• 300 g milk
• 270 g sugar
• 200 g eggs yolks
• 22 g gelatin sheets
• 800 g pure Hazelnut paste
• 900 g soft whipped cream
• 200 g Amaretto liquor

Bring liquid cream and milk till boiling point. Mix well yolks, sugar and pour half of the boiling milk into yolks mixture, mix well then pour this mixture to the boiling milk and cook till 83°C, add in soft gelatin, and strain this mixture to the praline paste, mix well, follow by Amaretto liquor, when the mixture reach 30°C, fold in soft whipped cream. Ready to spread on the Hazelnut Joconde, 800
grams each layers.

praline glaze

• 300 g liquid cream
• 900 g Nappage Neutre/clear glaze
• 220 g water
• 630 g milk chocolate
• 250 g hazelnut praline paste
• 18 g gelatin sheets

Bring liquid cream and water to boiling point, add in soaked gelatin. Pour into milk chocolate and praline paste, mix well. Last mix in the nappage Neutre by hand blender. Pass through fine sieve. Store in fridge and when need, warm to 40°C and smooth with hand blender, apply on cake.

chocolate pasta (for decoration)

• 500 g bakery flour (high gluten flour)
• 120 g icing sugar
• 5 whole eggs
• 20 g cocoa powder
• 15 g caraway seed

Roll 0.5cm thick and 15 cm length, and then cut to thin sticks like pasta, put in to tea strainer, deep fry it till crispy, cold down, spray with silver dust, decor on cake.

amaretto Syrup

• 1.000 g water
• 200 g sugar
• 600 g Amaretto liquor

Bring water and sugar to boiling point, after cold , add in Amaretto liquor, mix well. To punch on the hazelnut Joconde.

The post Hazelnut praline by Richard Long appeared first on so good.. magazine.

We went to Santiago de Chile to get to know the sweetest side of 99 Restaurante, one of Latin America’s modern establishments. Opened in 2014, this restaurant has a pastry station led by the young Gustavo Sáez, who in 2016 was even selected as the best restaurant pastry chef by the ranking of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for this continent.

Sáez, República del Cacao ambassador and also a member of the Chilean team for the World Pastry Cup 2018, is facing the great challenge of drawing new sweet horizons in a country that, until very recently, has lived with its back to its ingredients and its ancient gastronomic tradition. A challenge that he faces without losing sight of the fact that in 99 Restaurante there are two types of cuisine: one that is served at night, which is more complex and gastronomic, and another that is offered at midday, with a more set menu. This duality is evidenced in the desserts that Gustavo shares with us.

As the pastry chef himself explains at so good #19, ‘the proposals at night are a bit more daring, and that’s where we put more technique and we use products which are not so typical every day.’ In this case, the ingredient which is used is avocado, although mushrooms and eggplant have also come into play in other desserts. They are all products that reinforce the temporality of the menu and allow us to discover previously unexplored territories for the country. ‘In these dishes is where we can play around more,’ he acknowledges.

That does not mean that the midday menu desserts are less elaborate. Quite simply, they do not stray far from tradition and play more with elements of pastry aesthetics. Gustavo seeks to create recognizable and sweet dishes, with subtle modern touches. ‘We always try to make it as neat as possible, and we change this menu every day, with the idea that you can come for a year and not repeat a dish. We have a matrix of about 120 desserts that we adapt according to the season, so that in winter you would find a chocolate coulant with citrus, while in summer you would eat it with berries.’

Photos: Pablo Baracat

Brioche pudding

brioche

• 107 g sugar
• 107 g butter
• 2 g salt
• 500 g flour
• 150 g sourdough starter
• 50 g eggs
• 50 g egg yolks
• 1 u lemon zest
• 1 u orange zest
• 236 g milk

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the hook attachment, mix the flour, salt, sugar, eggs, egg yolks, sourdough starter and milk. Knead on low speed for approximately 25 minutes until the dough comes off the sides of the bowl. Gradually mix in the softened butter. Finally add the citrus fruit zests and transfer to a gastronorm pan greased with butter. Reserve in the refrigerator for about 4 hours. Cut into 35 g portions, gather into balls and fit into rectangular silicone molds. Allow to ferment at room temperature for 12 hours. Brush with an egg wash and bake. Apply some steam at 98ºC for two minutes. Bake at 160ºC for 10 minutes. Unmold and bake for an additional 5 minutes.

pudding

• 840 g brioche, cubed
• 1344 g cream
• 336 g sugar
• 240 g egg yolks
• 336 g white chocolate
• 336 g fruit

Cut the brioche into cubes. Mix the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and reserve. Place the cream over the heat and bring to a boil, then pour half of it over the previous mixture, place all back over the heat and cook to 85ºC. Mix with the white chocolate. Strain and pour over the brioche cubes. Reserve for 1 hour. Add the fruit to the mixture and bake in a gastronorm pan at 162ºC for 25 minutes. Cut into 9×2.5-cm rectangles.

sugared nuts

• 150 g nuts
• 60 g sugar
• 15 g water

Make a syrup with the sugar and water to 110ºC. Add the nuts and stir until crystallized. Pour onto a silpat and separate the nuts.

chocolate crémeux

• 200 g milk
• 120 g egg yolks
• 120 g sugar
• 300 g chocolate couverture, 60% cocoa
• 250 g cream

Combine the cream and milk and bring to a boil. Pour over the egg yolks, previously mixed with the sugar. Cook to 84ºC, quickly pass through a fine chinois or rapidly reserve in the refrigerator. With the help of a rubber spatula, emulsify with the melted chocolate until a smooth, elastic and glossy texture is obtained. To perfect the emulsion, process the mixture with a handheld blender being careful not to add air, and always working at 35ºC.

Serving

Place the pudding in the center and pipe the chocolate crémeux next to two of its corners.
Finish by placing some fresh figs and sugared nuts.

You will also find these two recipese in so good #19

The post Brioche pudding with sugared nuts and chocolate crémeux by Gustavo Sáez appeared first on so good.. magazine.

“In China, people eat fruit like crazy,” said Frederic Moreau, French executive pastry chef at The Peninsula Hotel Beijing, to our correspondent Santiago Corral at the meeting they held a few weeks ago. And fruit, specifically strawberry and raspberry, is the main element of one of his desserts, La Fraise, ideal for eating in hot weather and seducing with its color and refreshing character.

Raspberry and strawberry are fruit with a sweet and slightly acid flavor that have many antioxidant properties. In this piece they are presented in different forms (gelee, juice, sorbet) and with a clear link to French pastry culture in its very name, La Fraise. In his final presentation, Frederic Moreau accompanies it with coconut chantilly.

La Fraise

sponge pain de gene 

1 frame 40 x 60 cm

• 583 g almond paste 60%
• 365 g eggs
• 75 g clarified butter
• 75 g reg oil
• 98 g AP flour
• 6 g baking powder

With paddle mix paste with warmed eggs. Once soft enough switch with whisk, whip until fluffy. Fold fats and sifted flour-baking powder. Scale 1200 g in 40 x 60 cm frame. Bake at 150ºC for 25 minutes. Cut out circles of 7 cm.

gelée strawberry

12 ppl

• 160 g puree
• 30 g sugar
• 2,5 g algin
• 0,6 g xanthan
• 160 g puree

Warm up to 50ºC puree, sugar, algin and xanthan. Robot coupe add second puree. When cold robot coupe again, place in piping bag, freeze.

chantilly coconut

12 ppl

• 260 g cream
• 13 g glucose
• 120 g white chocolate 32%
• 130 g coconut puree

Bring cream, glucose to a boil, add chocolate. Add puree, burr mix. Keep in cooler.

croustillant red

• 225 g fondant
• 150 g glucose
• 150 g white chocolate 32%
• 3 g red color

Cook fondant and glucose to 150ºC. Add melted chocolate, pour over paper. Once cool down robot coupe and ground spice it to obtain a thin powder sift over silpat with a round cutter imprint the powder. Bake at 180ºC until lightly melted when cool remove with a small spatula. Place in a airtight container.

juice raspberry

Place in a bowl 1000 g frozen raspberries, cover with plastic film, place bowl over boiling water for 2 hours, until juice is out. Do not mix, strain berries in cheese cloth overnight in fridge, next day place juice in squizze bottle for soaking sponge and also to make raspberry gelee.

gelée raspberry

12 ppl

• 300 g raspberry juice
• 50 g sugar
• 4 g agar
• 10 g gelatin
• 50 g water for gelatin

Bring juice, sugar, agar to a boil, add gelatinm pour on acetate sheet as thin as possible. Cut out circles of 6 cm. Keep in fridge.

sorbet strawberry

• 80 g water
• 80 g sugar
• 65 g glucose powder
• 7 g sorbet stabilizer
• 60 g dextrose
• 800 g strawberry puree ponthier

Boil water, sugar, glucose and stab cool down to 20ºC, add puree. Burr mix. Next day burr mix and spin

strawberries

With 2 cm thick plexiglass trim strawberries so they are at the same level.

Assembly

Brush raspberry juice over pain de gene, place in middle of the plate, with large round tip pipe coconut chantilly around the edge of the sponge, pipe strawberry gelÉe between chantilly and in the middle of sponge. Add strawberries in a circle, pipe coconut chantilly in the middle. Place red croustillant, quenelle of sorbet, add disc of raspberry gelée.

The post La Fraise with juice, gelée, croustillant, sorbet, and chantilly by Frederic Moreau appeared first on so good.. magazine.

He comes from a family of boulangers from Epinal, France, but he decided to go for pastry. At only 21 years old and under the tutelage of Philippe Tort (Pâtisserie du Musée, of Epinal), Nicolas Lambert became the youngest winner of the National Festival des Croquembouches. He continues his career alongside great masters such as Sébastien Bouillet of Lyon, Christophe Michalak at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée (Paris), and Jérôme de Oliveira at Intuitions.

In 2015 he started working under the orders of the chef Fabrice Vulin of the restaurant Caprice at the Four Seasons hotel in Hong Kong. The French restaurant is classic and inspired by seasonal products. The desserts are aligned with Vulin’s guidelines and, as head of the dessert station, Lambert is also responsible for a wide assortment of petit fours and anniversary cakes. ‘I try to teach my pastry chefs that if they have done a good job they deserve to be praised, but if something has not reached my standard of quality I also show them the correct way to learn and be better. It is necessary constructive criticism,’ he adds. The sweet menu is very varied, but what is never missing are soufflés, rum babas, desserts based entirely on seasonal products, a chocolate dessert, and a house dessert in the shape of a raspberry, which in winter becomes a blackberry.

At Caprice, he enjoys the creative freedom he did not have in the past, when he worked in shops where creations had to stick to packaging and a longer commercial life. The immediacy of consuming a restaurant dessert allows him to experiment with softer textures, ice cream, and sugar decorations. When faced with a new creation, he reasons, first seeking the correct balance of flavors through three textures: crispy, creamy, and the presence of the texture of jam or fruit confit, like in the figs and hazelnuts dessert. However, if the arrangement of the elements on the plate is not adequate, it will not achieve the desired effect in this game of textures. The second step is, then, to study the visual design of the dessert.

Figs and hazelnuts

hazelnut sablé

• 240 g butter
• 100 g sugar
• 75 g egg yolks
• 120 g hazelnut powder
• 130 g flour
• 2 g salt

Mix everything together and then roll to 3 mm. Cut with a cutter to 4.5 cm long and bake at 150ºC for 12 minutes.

white cheese sorbet

• 1400 g water
• 220 g glucose powder
• 600 g sugar
• 16 g pectagel rose (pectin)
• 1000 g white cheese
• 150 g fresh lemon
• 120 g honey
• 450 g cream

Boil the water, glucose, pectagel rose and sugar. Add all the other ingredients and mix. Churn in a Pacojet and then place inside the silicone mold.

fig confit

• 700 g fresh figs
• 30 g brown sugar
• 8 g pectin NH
• 35 g honey
• 25 g lemon juice
• 8 g gelatin mass

Caramelize the honey and then stop cooking with the fresh figs. Add the brown sugar and pectin NH. Boil everything together and, once cooked, add the lemon juice

fig cream

• 700 g cream (hot)
• 80 g sugar
• 70 g gelatin mass
• 25 g fresh figs leaves
• 600 g mascarpone
• 300 g cream (cold)
• 40 g honey

Boil the first cream, sugar, honey and gelatin mass. Add the fig slices (thinly cut) and infuse for 20 minutes. Strain over the cold cream and the mascarpone. Mix everything together.

dipping ravioli

• 60 g vegetables
• 60 g sugar
• 1000 g water

Mix well.

fig purée

Fill a silicone dome mold (4.5 cm in diameter).

other

• fresh figs
• fresh hazelnut
• 3 purple sugar sticks
• dry figs
• vegetables

Finishing

Start by cutting the fresh figs and placing them inside a 7-cm-wide ring. Place inside one hazelnut sable of 4.5 cm. Add some fig confit and place 6 toasted hazelnuts on the top of the confit. Then place inside one scoop of white cheese sorbet and finish by closing with the fig cream.
Dip the ravioli in the dipping ravioli sauce and place the ravioli (fig purée sphere) directly on the top of the dessert. Add some dry figs, toasted hazelnut and fresh hazelnuts for the decoration. Take out the ring and place 3 purple sugar sticks.
For this dessert, it is better to use figs from Solliès and hazelnuts from Piedmont.

You will also find the Coconut bobine‘s recipe in so good #19

The post Figs and hazelnuts by Nicolas Lambert appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Caramelized Milk Chocolate “Caramelatte” offers a play on textures with coconut sorbet, praline dust, caramelized almonds, salted caramel, and Kalamansi. The dessert is part of the 11th course degustation menu of Amber, a two-Michelin-star restaurant integrated into the Landmark Mandarin Oriental hotel (Hong Kong). Its pastry chef Michael Pretet, interviewed by our correspondent Santiago Corral, takes great care of the products he uses because for him, that is the basis for any dessert. Something that is very evident in this dish that he shares with us from the moment it is plated.

Caramelatte

caramelatte glaze 

• 135 g water
• 165 g sugar
• 220 g milk
• 100 g glucose
• 300 g syrup
• 80 g gelatin mass
• 450 g milk chocolate Caramelatte 35%

With the water, glucose and sugar, make a syrup. Melt the gelatin in. Add the milk then put on the caramelatte and mix as a ganache. Use at 35°C.

caramelatte cremeux

• 250 g cream
• 250 g milk
• 100 g eggs yolk
• 500 g milk chocolate Caramelatte 35%
• 20 g gelatin mass

Cook the cream, milk and eggs yolk at 83°C. Add the gelatin to melt it. Put on the caramelatte to mix as a ganache. Put in the silicone mold and let in the fridge 3 hours.

caramelatte mousse

• 125 g milk
• 50 g eggs yolk
• 27 g gelatin mass
• 550 g whipped cream
• 220 g milk chocolate Caramelatte 35%

Cook the cream, milk and eggs yolk at 83°C. Add the gelatin to melt it. Put on the caramelatte to mix as a ganache. Cool down at around 30°C and mix with the whipped cream. Complete the silicone mold and freeze.

almond caramelized

• 500 g almond
• 75 g water
• 200 g sugar
• 15 g butter
• 6 g sea salt

Roast slightly the almond. Cook sugar and water at 110°C. Add the almond and caramelized. At the end add butter and sea salt for coating. Break in small pieces for the plaiting.

salted caramel

• 375 g sugar
• 40 g glucose
• 2 pcs vanilla bean
• 100 g butter
• 5 g sea salt
• 300 g cream

Make a blonde caramel with sugar and glucose. Infuse the vanilla bean in the cream. When the caramel is ready add sea salt and slowly the hot cream. Cook at 108°C and cool down at 40°C. Add the butter and mix.

cocoa sorbet

• 1250 g water
• 250 g sugar
• 250 g glucose powder
• 150 g cocoa powder
• 15 g stabilizer
• 25 g invert sugar
• 50 g Kacinkoa 85%

Mix all the powder, add in the water and boil. Add the kacinkoa. Put in paco and freeze.

Decoration

Milk chocolate Caramelatte disc.

Assembly

Begin by sifting powder biscuit over a stencil to create circles this is the first step, next, with a
pipping bag, swirl the plate with the salted caramel. Place the caramelatte petit gateaux on one
side of the plate. Once done that, place the chocolate disk on top of it and add some
melted chocolate on the top so you can stick the caramelized almonds on top. Once done this quenelle a scoop of the cocoa sorbet and place on top. Decorate with passion fruit gel.

The post Caramelized Milk Chocolate Caramelatte by Michael Pretet appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Ice cream is a complex and beautiful world, thinks Andrés Lara. There are always aspects of the product that are waiting for its evolution, for its change. And there are always possibilities to continue learning from a trade and a product that has hardly been thoroughly worked on.

With these premises, the Cacao barry Canada creative Chef, now also a teacher at the Chocolate Academy of Canada, has created a line of individual “cakes” that can be both served in the dining room of an ice cream parlor and thought of as a product to take home. They can also be part of a dessert. It is a creative exercise with ice cream as the protagonist and the individual format as context. Because there is nothing more stimulating than starting from an underrated product in pastry, showing its potential without leaving behind imagination, complex tastes, fun textures, and offering alternatives to the silicone molds when it comes to presentation.

Paths that are also possible in a product as popular as ice cream.

‘The idea is to take the concept of an ice cream sandwich but giving it an elegant shape as an individual ice cream cake. The flavors are the pure expression of all the sensations that are important to me. A game of savory, spicy, sweet, acidic and -the surprising touch- cheese!’

Parmesan sandwich

zephyr passion fruit ice cream

• 655 g water
• 60 g 0% milk powder
• 80 g sucrose
• 60 g invert sugar
• 80 g glucose powder DE 38
• 45 g maltodextrin DE 12
• 340 g passion fruit purée
• 4 g Maldon salt
• 215 g Zephyr white couverture, 34% cocoa
• 6 g ice cream stabilizer

Heat the water to 50ºC. Add the dry solids and heat to 85ºC. Homogenize with the Zephyr couverture. Allow to chill then homogenize with the purée. Allow to mature in the refrigerator for 12 hours. Churn.

black pepper mango sorbet

• 430 g water
• 126 g sucrose
• 130 g maltodextrin DE12
• 70 g dextrose
• 1000 g mango purée
• 50 g lemon juice
• 5 g Maldon salt
• 2 g ground black pepper
• 6 g sorbet stabilizer

Warm the water and ground pepper to 50ºC. Add the dry solids. Heat to 85ºC and allow to cool. Mix in the mango purée and lemon juice, homogenize. Allow to mature in the refrigerator for 12 hours. Churn.

passion fruit gelée

• 250 g passion fruit purée
• 18 g dextrose
• 63 g water
• 8 g agar agar
• 21 g gelatin mass, 200 bloom
• 2.5 g Maldon salt

Heat the purée, water and agar agar to a boil. Add the gelatin mass and dissolve. Cast in a silicone disk to 1 mm thickness. Freeze.

parmesan sablé

• 160 g butter
• 40 g sucrose
• 100 g Parmesan cheese, grated
• 1.5 g Maldon salt
• 100 g T-55 flour
• 100 g almond flour

Combine all the ingredients with the cold butter in a food processor. Store in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Roll to a thickness of 2 mm and bake at 160ºC.

meringue

• 100 g pasteurized egg whites
• 200 g sucrose
• 80 g water
• 20 g glucose syrup DE40

Cook the sugar syrup to 121ºC. Pour over the egg whites and whip.

Montage

In a 5-cm diameter silicon round mold, prepare one sablé in the mold.
Pipe the passion fruit ice cream on top of sable and insert the passion fruit gel.
Pipe another layer of ice cream to cover the gel.
Top with another sablé and shock freeze.
Make the meringue and pipe around the sandwich. Burn with a blowtorch.
Pipe the mango sorbet on the surface.
Finish with grated parmesan cheese and black pepper.

You will also find these  recipes in so good #20

The post Parmesan sandwich by Andrés Lara appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Text: Reiko Matsuno
Photos: Noriko Carlow

Ryosuke Sugamata was a competent pastry chef at Deux Patisserie when he showed a reconstructed crème caramel in previous so good #10 and he now owns his pastry shop in Yoga, Tokyo that he made his dream come true at last in 2015. With the experience as a sous chef at Pierre Hermé Salon de Thé in Japan and the fame as a master of macaron, one of his specialties sitting in the brightly-lit showcase is macaron, naturally. He even transforms the fragile delicacy from France into individual cakes with seasonal ingredients. When looking into the showcase at Ryoura, it is as if the smell of fresh fruits decorating his cakes that break through the glass to your nose.

Pastry chefs, especially in Japan, are very serious about seasons and seasonal ingredients, but Sugamata says, “I’ve tried not to stick with seasons too much, recently.” He doesn’t mean that a sense of the season is no longer important for him. “Seasonal fruits such as strawberry in spring or citrus in summer remind you in what season you are now in visually, but I want people to associate my cakes with more than one season. Pear and caramel, for example, are more like an autumn combination, but if I add lychee and passion fruit to it, the cake will be able to remind you of summer, too.”

Many chefs think that using more than three main ingredients in a cake is likely to mask their pure tastes, but he doesn’t think so. “I like to achieve the taste I want by layering various tastes and flavors of ingredients. There should be supporting roles to highlight the leading role. Take sashimi for example. Sashimi is eaten with a small amount of wasabi to mask its fishy smell. I mean, adding something can deduct something you don’t need. That’s the way I invent combinations of ingredients.

Tayberry is one of his most favorite ingredients. He found it in France three years ago and its rose-like, flavorful tea-like smell lit his creative fire. It goes well with various ingredients, he thinks. “Coconut is one of the best partners, but I don’t like to cloud the pure taste of tayberry, so I often make it jelly or jam when combining with other ingredients.” He creates “eclairs of the season” through the year and the Eclaire Jardinage with tayberry is the taste of this spring. From winter to spring, every pastry chef fills his/her showcase with cakes with strawberries because Japanese adore it. The standard strawberry tactic is simply layering sponge, whipped cream and strawberries because strawberry here tastes best without any tricks. It seems that is why sophisticated strawberry cakes are not around.

‘Seasonal fruits such as strawberry in spring or citrus in summer remind you what season you are in now visually, but I want people to associate my cakes with more than one season.’’

When you see Eclaire Jardinage, your eyes would transmit such data to your brain that these cakes are pink in color and pink means usual strawberry flavor. But your tongue will be thrilled with unexpected joy. Eclaire Jardinage has some tangy berry flavors and a luscious texture and the rich taste of pistachio cream. With his unique combination, and a superb sense of proportion of ingredients, the taste of his cakes always betrays the appearance in a good sense even though each ingredient is familiar.

When it comes to the designs of the cakes, he is almost fussy about straight lines and curved lines. “Look at Eclaire Jardinage, and the line of Mousse Tayberry and whipped pistachio cream above it. I wanted to make a good contrast of line and whirls”.

Jardinage

choux pastry

• 150 g butter
• 150 g milk
• 150 g water
• 10 g sugar
• 3 g salt
• 180 g cake flour
• 350 g whole egg

Put butter, milk, water, sugar and salt in a pan and bring it to boil. Remove from the heat and add shifted cake flour. Transform the mixture to mixer bowl and add egg in several parts while beating.

red cookie dough

• 150 g chilled butter, 1cm-large cubes
• 150 g sugar
• 185 g bread flour
• q.s. red food coloring

Beat everything in a mixer.

crème pâtissière

• 96 g egg yolks
• 94 g sugar
• 10 g cake flour
• 18 g custard powder
• 300 g milk
• 100 g fresh cream (45%)
• 1/4 u. vanilla bean

Mix the first four ingredients well. Heat milk, fresh cream and vanilla bean. Add the milk mixture to the egg yolk mixture. Cook it thoroughly.

confiture tayberry

• 250 g tayberry puree
• 15 g lemon puree
• 100 g sugar
• 4 g pectin LNSN325

Heat purees to about 45℃ and add the mixture of sugar and pectin. Boil it for a minute and pour into a baking pan. Whisk with hand blender when used.

bavaroise pistache

• 516 g milk
• 2.5 g vanilla powder
• 193 g egg yolks
• 165 g granulated sugar
• 18.7 g gelatin
• 455 g fresh cream (35%)
• 40 g pistachio paste

Make crème anglaise with milk, vanilla powder, egg yolks and sugar. Add gelatin to crème anglaise and strain. Add pistachio paste. Beat fresh cream until soft peak forms and add to the pistachio mixture. Pour into a 57cm x 37cm mold and put in a freezer.

mousse tayberry

• 360 g tayberry puree
• 140 g strawberry puree
• 95 g red currant puree
• 200 g egg yolks
• 220 g sugar
• 42 g water
• 13.5 g gelatin
• 450 g fresh cream (35%)

Make crème anglaise with 1/3 amount of the mixture of three purees, egg yolks and sugar. Moisten gelatin with water and add to the crème and strain. Add the rest of the purees and let cool to 24℃。Beat fresh cream until soft peak forms and combine with the berry mixture. Pour over the Bavaroise Pistache and put in a freezer. Cut into 11.5 x 1.5cm.

chantilly pistache

• 100 g fresh cream (35%)
• 200 g fresh cream (45%)
• 24 g sugar
• 9.5 g pistachio paste

Beat fresh creams and sugar and add pistachio paste.

almond decoration

• 100 g almond slices
• 28 g syrup (Baume 30°)
• 56 g icing sugar

Mix everything gently with rubber spatula and spread on a baking pan. Bake at 155℃ for about 10 minutes.

Montage

Pipe the choux pastry on a baking pan and top with the Red cookie dough. Bake at 190℃ at first and lower to 170℃ for one hour in total. Cut the choux horizontally and pipe crème patissiere and Confiture Tayberry. Place the layers of the bavarois and the mousse and pipe Chantilly Pistache. Top with strawberry, red currant, pistachio and almond decoration.

You will find these recipes in so good #20

The post Eclaire Jardinage by Ryosuke Sugamata appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
This year, L’École Valrhona Brooklyn has once again had in its classes calendar the Pastry Chef Sarah Tibbets, who taught a course dedicated to modern buffets, focused on Thanksgiving & Christmas, highlighting Fall & Winter flavors and colors.

A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, she has developed a successful career in some of the most recognized restaurants and hotels in the country. Nominated for the 2009 James Beard Awards, she appears regularly in the media and qualified for the American semi-finals of the Valrhona C3 in Versailles in April 2011.

The purpose of the course was to discover how to create eye-catching and memorable dessert tables and buffets for celebrations of all sizes, explore the roles of flavor and texture in smaller bite-sized desserts and to create visually appealing displays with seasonal inspiration. The students had the hands-on opportunity to make desserts in a small format, from verrines, to cakes, petits gâteaux, macarons, and various sweets, with Sarah. Among these creations we highlight this almond dainty cake, with step-by-step details below.

Photos: Alex Ayer Photography

Dainty cake

makes 35 portions

almond cake

=55 g per mold

• 500 g almond flour
• 500 g confectioner’s sugar
• 500 g whole eggs
• 30 g invert sugar
• 150 g all-purpose flour
• 500 g butter

Combine the first four ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer and blend with the paddle attachment.
Add the flour, then the melted butter.
Place in a pastry bag and chill until ready to use.

raspberry geleé

=15 g per mold

• 388 g raspberry purée
• 65 g glucose
• 115 g sugar
• 11 g NH pectin
• 38 g lemon juice

In a pot, heat the purée and glucose to 40°C (105°F).
Combine the sugar and pectin NH, then add to the mixture. Bring to a boil for one minute.
Add the lemon juice and immediately fill molds (fleximolds REF1146) using a sauce funnel.
Refrigerate until completely set.

almond whipped ganache

=50 g per cake

ganache

• 450 g whipping cream
• 50 g glucose
• 50 g invert sugar
• 650 g Almond Inspiration

whipped ganache

• 900 g ganache
• 900 g whipping cream

Combine the smaller amount of cream with the glucose and invert sugar in a pot.
Bring to just under a boil and then slowly pour over the melted Almond Inspiration, to create an emulsion. Blend with an immersion blender.
Rescale to 900g and add the cold liquid whipping cream- blend with an immersion blender again.
Pour into a shallow container and allow to crystalize in the refrigerator for 12 hours.

Absolu Cristal Spray Glaze

• 500 g Absolu Cristal Neutral Glaze
• 50 g water

Combine the Absolu Cristal and water- bring to a boil.
Spray immediately using a spray gun with the glaze at 80°C (176°F).
*For manual spray bottle, reduce Absolu Cristal to 300g.

Assembly and finishing

Pipe the Almond Cake batter into the molds (fleximolds REF4394) and bake at 190°C (375°F) until light golden brown (home oven 20-22 minutes).
Cool and unmold- trim the top to create a flat surface.
Temper Almond Inspiration and spread between two guitar sheets.
Cut rectangles to fit on the top of the cake (9×4.5cm).
Place a Raspberry Geleé bar directly on the décor rectangle.
Whip the Almond Inspiration Whipped Ganache to medium stiffness and pipe on the décor in a zig-zag motion to cover the Geleé completely. Repeat with all the décor rectangles and place in the freezer.
Spray the frozen pieces with the Absolu Cristal Spray Glaze and place on the baked Almond Cake.
Garnish with freeze dried raspberry pieces and caramelized almonds.

Another creations that Tibbetts designed during her class dedicated to modern buffets at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn

The post Dainty cake with almond and raspberry by Sarah Tibbetts appeared first on so good.. magazine.