She is a lively, active pastry chef who loves her job and is always moving. This is something that is perceived as soon as you meet Kirsten Tibballs, owner of her own Savour Chocolate & Patisserie School, near Melbourne. But this is also something that her creations transmit as well. We do not talk about the rigor in the process of elaboration, perfection in finishing, and the utmost respect she shows for her trade every day, although we could. We now refer to something more intangible, and it is her incredible capacity to generate and spread ‘good vibes’ through her work. Whether it is the decorations, the use of colors, or the reinterpretation that makes the classics even more sacred, Kirsten Tibballs is able to transmit positivity with her pastry. Perhaps that is why she is the So Good.. magazine collaborator who most frequently visits our pages.

On this occasion, the Australian chef exclusively gives us a modernized version of the classic Saint Honoré, mounted on an elongated Breton shortbread base with cream spheres placed on the profiteroles de choux; a powerful and aromatic mint, pineapple, and coconut cake, decorated with majestic chocolate lilies; and a delicious Apple Cinnamon Tart, crowned with three tantalizing apples of an intense green color.

Modern Saint Honoré

sable breton

yield: 12 rectangles

• 150 g unsalted butter
• 150 g caster sugar
• 1 g sea salt
• 75 g egg yolks
• 205 g plain flour
• 6 g baking powder

Beat the softened butter with the sugar and salt. Add the egg yolks followed by the sifted flour and baking powder. Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Roll the dough to 10 mm thick and cut with an éclair cutter. Place each rectangle inside an éclair cutter and bake at 180°C for approximately 10 minutes.

caramel

• 100 g fresh cream, 35% fat
• 175 g caster sugar
• 75 g liquid glucose, warmed
• 125 g unsalted butter
• 3 g sea salt

Bring the cream to a boil and keep it hot. Warm a large saucepan and melt the sugar one third at a time; allow each addition to completely dissolve and caramelize before adding the next amount of sugar. Continue until all the sugar is completely dissolved and a golden brown colour, then add the warmed glucose. Add the hot cream carefully on a low heat. Once all the cream is added, remove from the heat. Still stirring, add the butter and salt. Cover the caramel with cling film, pressing it down onto the surface to avoid a skin forming.

pâte à choux

• 125 g full cream milk
• 125 g water
• 10 g caster sugar
• 2 g sea salt
• 100 g unsalted butter
• 75 g plain flour
• 75 g baker’s flour
• 225 g free range eggs

Place milk, water, sugar, salt and butter in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the sifted flours until combined. Return to low-medium heat and cook for approximately 2 minutes, stirring continuously, until a smooth mass has formed. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer with the paddle attachment. Beat the mixture for about 1 minute then slowly incorporate the eggs in small amounts, stopping the mixer regularly to scrape down the sides. Place the mixture into a piping bag and pipe 30 mm round profiteroles onto a lined tray. Place in the oven at 130°C for 15 minutes. Increase heat to 150°C for 15 minutes. Increase heat to 170°C for 15 minutes or until a golden colour is achieved.

vanilla cream

• 500 g fresh cream, 35% fat
• 1 vanilla bean
• 120 g egg yolks
• 100 g caster sugar
• 6 g gold gelatine leaf

Boil the cream and vanilla beans previously cut into two and scraped. Combine the sugar and yolks in a bowl. Pour the boiled cream over the yolks mixture. Place back on the stove on a low heat to 82°C while stirring and then strain. Sieve the anglaise then add the pre-soaked gelatine. Pipe into a small sphere mould and freeze.

clear set glaze

• 50 g neutral glaze
• 75 g water
• 250 g mirror glaze

Bring the neutral glaze and water to a boil. Fold in the mirror glaze. Use the glaze at 30°C.

Assembly

Pipe caramel into the base of the Breton shortbread. Cut the bases off the profiteroles and turn them upside down. Place the frozen vanilla cream on a glazing rack and glaze with the clear glaze. While still frozen place inside the overturned profiterole. Place three vanilla profiteroles on top of the caramel in a line.

You will find two others recipes in so good #15

Lilium

Apple Cinnamon Tart

The post Modern Saint Honoré by Kirsten Tibballs appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Perseverance has its rewards. In 2011 he won the silver medal in Lyon. Many would have already been satisfied, but Emmanuele Forcone knew he could achieve glory because he knew the recipe: ‘a good team, a lot of experience, all the dedication and maximum organization.’ And so in 2015 he, with Francesco Boccia and Fabrizio Donatone, was proclaimed world pastry champion. He sums up his philosophy in one sentence, which cannot be rebutted, ‘we all have the pen to write our own future’.

Coffee, lemon and gianduja

whipped coffee cream with mascarpone and lemon

• 450 g cream
• 50 g espresso
• 50 g coffee beans
• 500 g mascarpone
• 180 g superfine sugar
• zest of ½ Amalfi lemon

Mix the cream, lemon zest, coffee beans and espresso together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at 4ºC overnight.

Strain and combine the infusion with the sugar and mascarpone.

Whip in a stand mixer to a thick consistency, being careful not to overwhip.

gianduja and mascarpone crémeux

• 200 g crème anglaise

  Emmanuele Forcone

• 100 g milk couverture, 40% cocoa
• 45 g Piadmonte hazelnut paste
• 80 g mascarpone
• 2 g animal gelatin
• 10 g water for the gelatin

Hydrate the gelatin in the water and whisk into the hot crème anglaise to dissolve. Gradually pour the crème anglaise over the chocolate and hazelnut paste, while stirring with a rubber spatula until emulsified. Keep over a temperature of 35ºC. Smooth the emulsion with the help of a hand-held blender, ensuring an elastic, glossy center.

At 40ºC, add the mascarpone and finish the emulsion. Leave to set overnight before use.

almond sablé paste

• 360 g butter
• 270 g confectioners’ sugar
• 100 g hazelnut powder
• 150 g whole egg
• 180 g flour
• 525 g flour
• 6 g salt
• 1 u vanilla bean

Knead the butter, salt, sugar, almond, egg and first measurement of flour. Once the dough is homogeneous, quickly mix in the second amount of flour.

Leave to set overnight, shape and bake at 160ºC until completely golden.

Assembly

Bake the sablé in an oval shape with the help of a silicone mat. Impermeabilize with some cocoa butter and fill with the whipped coffee and lemon cream. Garnish with the gianduja crémeux and chocolate details.

The post Coffee, lemon and gianduja, by Emmanuele Forcone appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Laurent Jeannin

How to address the sweet creations in a grand palace steeped in history and gastronomic luxury? It is the great challenge that Laurent Jeannin faces everyday, pastry chef of the iconic Parisian hotel Le Bristol in general and in particular at the three-starred restaurant Epicure. The challenge is even greater when the savory offer is in the hands of a chef the likes of MOF Eric Frechon. To succeed, Laurent Jeannin has a commitment to desserts loaded with elegance and clean flavors, while continuing in the same line as chef Frechon when lightening and intelligently and moderately updating French savoir faire.

In any case, Laurent Jeannin’s career has been marked by challenges. He took his first steps in the world of pastry at the age of 15, training in the traditional pastry shop Valade (Cusset). In 1986 and for three years he joined the team of pastry chefs at Fauchon, taking orders from Pierre Hermé and Christophe Felder. From pastry workshops he takes a leap into the world of hotels, becoming part of the pastry station at the Hotel Crillon and then heading all the sweet station at the hotel George V. Always aware of new challenges, Jeannin decided to travel to Japan in 2001 and work there as a consultant until 2007. His return to France comes linked to another challenge: leading the pastry of all the hotel Le Bristol and joining efforts to turn Epicure in a worldwide gastronomy reference. The restaurant gained its third Michelin star just two years later, and Laurent Jeannin has begun collecting awards for his work.

Honey and lemon thyme ice cream, pears refreshed with grated lime and ginger

Serves 4 people

honey and thyme ice cream

• 150 g milk
• 105 g UHT cream
• 40 g acacia honey
• 5 g superfine sugar
• 40 g egg yolks
• 2 u twigs of thyme
• q.s. stabilizer

Mix the stabilizer and sugar. Combine the milk and cream and bring to a boil. Mix the egg yolks with the honey and add the sugar and stabilizer mixture. Add the thyme and continue to cook. Pass through a chinois. Leave to mature in the refrigerator and churn. Reserve the ice cream in the freezer.

honey espuma

• 200 g honey ice cream
• 1 u gelatin sheet

Hydrate the gelatin sheet in iced water, drain and melt together with 200 g of honey ice cream.

sablé breton

• 250 g semi-salted butter
• 100 g superfine sugar
• 40 g ground almond
• 200 g flour T55
• 5 g baking powder
• 40 g egg yolks (or else two egg yolks)
• 10 g vanilla extract

In the bowl of a stand mixer, mix all the ingredients in the stated order. Roll out the dough between two acetate sheets to a thickness of 2 mm and reserve in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Pre-heat the oven to 170ºC. Remove both acetate sheets and replace with two parchment paper ones. Bake for 20 minutes.

honey and lemon

Honey and lemon thyme ice cream, pears refreshed with grated lime and ginger

• 200 g honey
• 2 u lemon
• 40 g ground almond
• 200 g flour T55
• 5 g baking powder
• 40 g egg yolks (or else two egg yolks)
• 10 g vanilla extract

Combine the honey and the zest and juice of two lemons, slightly adding some yellow color. Reserve in the refrigerator until use.

honeycomb

• 300 g white fondant
• 100 g honey
• 100 g glucose syrup

Cook all the ingredients to 165ºC and pour over a silicone mat. Allow to cool and store in an airtight container with calcium chloride. Place in a blender and process until a honey caramel powder is obtained. With the help of a sieve, sprinkle over the silicone molds. Remove the excess. Bake at 200ºC for 5 minutes and unmold. With the help of a hot knife, cut into rectangles of the desired shape. Reserve in an airtight container.

pears with ginger

• 2 u Doyenné du Comice pears
• 15 g fresh ginger
• 1/2 u lemon

Peel two Doyenné du Comice pears. Cut into 5-mm dice and mix with the fresh ginger previously grated with a microplane. Add the juice of half a lemon. Reserve in the refrigerator until use.

Plating

Mold two ice cream rectangles and, with the help of a melon baller, make a hollow in the middle of each rectangle. Fill the hollow of one rectangle with sablé and the other one with honey espuma. Put one rectangle on top of the other, add the honeycomb and garnish the surface with pieces of pear with ginger and lemon. Add some grated lime and finish by garnishing with two pieces of honeycomb and some bees made with sugar. Sauce with the honey-lemon mix.

The post Honey and lemon thyme ice cream by Laurent Jeannin appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Everything that has to do with Modernist Cuisine is already synonymous with innovation and admiration, especially since they presented their work par excellence on the science of cuisine. But now they are back in the spotlight thanks to pastry chef Francisco Migoya’s (so good #5, so good #6)  ongoing, year-long work within his team. With him they are preparing a very ambitious work that will study bread and which is scheduled for spring 2017. Such a project is so engrossing that the Mexican chef confesses using the creation of new desserts as a kind of ‘pastry therapy’. A therapy that is far from negligible, with the creative stamp of this great chef and in which there is no shortage of all kinds of innovations, personal designs, and subtle tributes to childhood products, or to favorite flavor combinations. Do not miss his oeufs à la neige, where chef Francisco Migoya proposes an interesting false meringue, less sweet and more stable than the original.

Aloe was a plant that my mother would use to treat minor cuts and sunburns when we were kids. But its texture is very much like cactus (nopal), which is widely used in Mexican cuisine. I first thought about using this because it reminded me of a gel I made with gellan gum, which was clear as water but could be stained with fruit juices easily. So this is a gel form nature, almost as clear as water and very easy to flavor with pretty much anything. The important part is to remove the sliminess, which can be accomplished by soaking the aloe in baking soda or in an ingredient called tequesquite which is an alkaline salt that helps remove the sliminess. Kalamansi is one of my favorite flavors and it doesn’t need much more. I do, however, like pairing sharp acidic flavors such as this with sweet, nutty flavors, which is why it had a hazelnut praline crust.

Hibiscus stained aloe with kalamansi sorbet and hazelnut praliné

hibiscus poached aloe

• 1 p aloe leaf
• 10 g baking soda (or tequesquite*)

Peel the outer shell off of the aloe using a vegetable peeler. Rinse the aloe in cold water for five minutes. Soak it in cold water; dissolve the baking soda or tequesquite in the water. Allow to soak for 12-16 hours in refrigeration. After this time, rinse again in cold water and return to refrigeration.

*Tequesquite is an alkaline rock made up of baking soda, common salt, potassium carbonate, sodium sulfate and clay. Some people in Mexico use it as seasoning for food but it serves this de-sliming purpose too.

sable dough

• 60 g all-purpose flour
• 140 g cake flour
• 95 g butter (room temperature, soft)
• 2 g salt
• 70 g powdered sugar, sifted
• 15 g almond flour
• 40 g eggs (room temperature)

Sift the flours. Cream the butter, salt, powdered sugar, and almond flour in an electric mixer using a paddle attachment until smooth. Add eggs in stages (for this small amount add it all at once). Add the sifted flours in two stages on low speed; mix to form a homogenous mass. Roll the dough out to 3 mm thick. Bake at 160°C/320°F until golden brown (about 5-7 minutes). Cool down to room temperature, then grind in a robot coupe until you obtain fine crumbs.

hazelnut praliné crust

• 250 g sable crumbs
• 150 g hazelnut praline
• 70 g melted clarified butter

Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl to form a homogenous mass. Roll the dough out to 2 mm between two sheets of parchment paper using a rolling pin. Freeze. Once hard, use a 1.5 inch /3.25 cm long oval ring cutter to cut into ovals. Reserve frozen.

kalamansi sorbet

• 225 g sugar
• 45 g glucose powder
• 5 g sorbet stabilizer
• 450 g water
• 270 g kalamansi powder
• 6 g invert sugar (Trimoline)

Brush the interior of the molds with a thin layer of melted white chocolate. Freeze the molds.

Combine the sugar with the glucose powder and the sorbet stabilizer in a bowl. Heat the water in a sauce pot over medium-high heat. When it reaches 45 to 50°C/ 113-122°F, pour in the dry ingredients using a whisk. While stirring, bring the mixture up to 85°C/185°F. Cool down over an ice bath. Allow to age for 3 hours in refrigeration.

Stir into the kalamansi pure along with the invert sugar. Make sure it dissolves completely. Churn in a batch freezer.
Pipe into the frozen leaf molds. Even out the top of the mold using an offset spatula. Place a frozen praline crust oval at the base and push in very gently. Freeze to harden. Once hard, remove the sorbet from the mold. Coat with green cocoa butter using an airbrush. Reserve frozen and well covered.

Assembly

Slice both aloes (the one that was short-term stained and the one that was stained for 24 hours in the hibiscus) to 2 mm thick. Place two of each on a plate.

Place the kalamansi sorbet on the plate. Allow it to temper for four or five minutes before serving it so it isn’t too hard.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #16

Coconut and lime cream with caramelized pineapple

Oeufs ala neige

The post Hibiscus stained aloe by Francisco Migoya appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Text: Alberto Ruiz

Pastry’s enfant terrible. In the reign of molds and glazes which are more or less strident, Javier Guillén detaches himself with a new line of desserts called Inverted. It is as if he had broken the luminous mirror of the glaze to show all the crudeness inside, with fillings sprouting and the different materials visible. ‘Today, you either glaze or you’re nobody. Well, this collection comes to change the rules, with a mold that allows the mousse to be in the interior and the cream on the outside. Just the opposite of what we have seen in recent years,’ says the chef.

Javier Guillén’s creativity is as exciting as his own career, as a Spanish chef living in Paris, who has businesses in Brazil and working all around the world providing his advice. Among his many occupations is his collaboration with a unique Ecuadorian chocolate company called La República del Cacao, founded ten years ago and which maintains among its principles the sustainability of the territory, social involvement, and the use of natural products which are exclusively of Latin American origin.

Inverted soursop

peanut and chocolate mousse

• 415 g milk
• 190 g peanut paste
• 1040 g liquid cream, 35% fat
• 660 g RdC couverture, 65% cocoa
• 9 g gelatin

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water. Bring the milk to a boil and add the drained gelatin. Pour approximately 1/3 of the hot liquid over the couverture, previously melted and mixed with the peanut paste. Use a hand whisk to obtain a smooth, elastic, glossy texture, ensuring a proper emulsion. Add the remaining milk making sure the texture is preserved. When the mixture is at 35/40ºC, add the whipped cream.
Immediate pour into the JG Inverted mold.

whipped peanut ganache

• 135 g cream
• 12 g glucose
• 2 g gelatin
• 260 g RdC couverture, 40% cocoa
• 70 g peanut paste
• 365 g liquid cream, 35% fat

Combine the cream, gelatin and glucose and bring to a boil. Little by little, pour the hot mixture over the chopped couverture and peanut paste while stirring at the center so as to create an elastic, glossy ‘core’, ensuring a proper emulsion has started. Make sure this texture is not altered during all the process.
Gradually continue to add the liquid and process with an immersion blender to perfect the emulsion.
Add the 365 g of cold cream to the ganache and gently process with an immersion blender.
Refrigerate for 12 hours.

soursop gelée

• 600 g soursop purée
• 80 g sugar
• 2 g NH pectin
• 10 g gelatin
• 3 u cinnamon sticks

Start by mixing the sugar and pectin.
Combine the soursop and bring to a boil. Cover with plastic wrap and leave aside until cool.
Pass through a chinois.
Heat the purée together with the glucose.
When the mixture is at 50ºC, add the sugar and pectin.
Bring to a boil.
Pour into hemisphere molds.
Blast freeze.

spray 40%

• 400 g cocoa butter
• 500 g RdC couverture, 40% cocoa

Mix all the ingredients and heat to 55ºC.
Spray over the frozen desserts.

Montage

Place the soursop-cinnamon hemisphere on one side of our petit gateau.
With the help of a #16 plain tip, pipe the ganache on one side, on top of the hemisphere, leaving the gelée visible.
Garnish with chocolate and gold powder disks.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

Inverted cherry

Inverted raspberry

The post Inverted soursop by Javier Guillén appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Rasmus Kofoed stands out as one of the indisputable leaders of new Nordic cuisine, proven by his triple success in the Bocuse d’Or. Today he comes to the pages of so good #17 to show some of his dessert innovations. Like the rest of his cuisine, the sweet side also connects with the wildest part of the plant world. A good example of this is this dessert, “Walk in the Forest”, with a woordruff, white chocolate, wood sorrel, and prune tree base.

‘A dish inspired by the wild herbs, colors, shapes and shadows that you meet in the forest.’

“Walk in the Forest”- Wood Sorrel & Woodruff

cream with woodruff & white chocolate

• 500 g cream
• 60 g sugar
• 3 pieces of gelatin
• 30 g white chocolate
• 3 g dried woodruff powder

Slowly heat the cream & sugar. Strain the gelatin and add it to the chocolate
with the woodruff powder. Stir until well incorporated and then strain and
place in the fridge to chill.

woodruff gel

View full image

• 500 g water
• 60 g sugar
• 75 g blanched woodruff

Blend woodruff with sugar & water, strain the liquid though a fine cloth and
add 1 piece of gelatin per 100g of liquid.

wood sorrel water

• 250 g ice cold water
• 35 g sugar
• 60 g wood sorrel tops

Blend sugar & wood sorrel with ice cold water, for 7 min. Strain the liquid
through a fine cloth, place in molds and freeze.

crispy prune trees

• 250 g prunes
• 360 g water
• 50 g sugar
• 40 g isomalt
• 10 g glucose

Blend all ingredients in a thermomix into a fine puree. Pass through a sieve
and place in a piping bag. Pipe the mixture into tree-like shapes & bake at
105C for 70 minutes, until crispy.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

The post Walk in the forest by Rasmus Kofoed appeared first on so good.. magazine.

In early March, Antonio Bachour gave a course at the L’École Valrhona Brooklyn school on entremets and petits gâteaux in which he explored many combinations of different flavors with gâteaux bases and created multi-layer entremets of various textures and fillings. The title of the course speaks for itself, “Bachour style”, which we can perfectly admire in this Peckale Opera, a kind of deconstruction of the classic Opera dessert based on butter and coffee. Enjoy the complete recipe below.

This was the first of three seminars that the chef has scheduled in the 2017 school calendar for Valrhona Brooklyn. The following one, Bachour Bakery Desserts, will be in June, and the third will be taught in October as a duet with Carles Mampel and only for members of Cercle V of Valrhona.

Photos: Nitzan Rubin

Peckale Opera

(Yiels 12-15 Petit Gateaux)

almond chocolate cake

• 210 g almond praline
• 80 g sugar
• 210 g eggs
• 15 g cocoa powder
• 55 g dark chocolate 70%
• 60 g flour
• 55 g butter

Preheat ove 175C
Mix the eggs, sugar and praline in the mixer with the whip attactment. Melt butter and chocolate. Sift dry ingredients. Add butter chocolate mixture to the egg mixture and fold in the dry ingredients.Pour batter in silicone mold and bake 10-12 minutes.

chocolate cremeux

• 375 g heavy cream
• 375 g milk
• 150 g yolks
• 175 g sugar
• 375 g 70% chocolate

Make a creme anglaise and cook to 82C. Strain through a fine sieve over the partially melted chocolate in order to get a smooth, shiny texture (mix with the rubber spatula). Process the emulsion with a hand blender to perfect the cremeux.
Immediately pour the cremeux on top the almond cake. Freeze it.

almond Milk Chocolate Coating Coverture

• 500 g Milk Chocolate couverture
• 110 g Cocoa Butter
• 150 g Dry roasted almond ( crushed)

Melt down the couverture and cocoa butter to about 45°C Crush down the almond to nibs. Temper the couverture down to 30 °C and stir in the peanut nibs.

coffee White Chocolate Whipped Ganache

• 250 g heavy cream
• 25 g inverted sugar
• 25 g glucose syrup
• 12 g instant coffee
• 220 g white chocolate, melted
• 375 g heavy cream

Bring 250 g heavy cream, sugar and glucose to a boil in a small pot. Pour over chocolate and whisk until smooth. Add 375 g chilled cream and process with a hand blender until smooth. Refrigerate overnight to set.

Transfer to a pastry bag with a #1 round pastry tip for Assembly.

Assembly

Stick a tooth-pick trough each almondcale/ cremeux and set aside in the freezer for a few minutes. Dip each petit gateaux in the almond milk chocolate coating and remove the tooth pick. Using a pastry bag fitted a small star nozzle pipe a rosette of coffee whipped ganache on top.

The post The classic Opera according to Antonio Bachour appeared first on so good.. magazine.

‘We want aesthetics to go in cleaner lines and it’s not about being aseptic, but simple. We do not want seven things inside a cake, we do not want people to have to think to identify the flavors. When I go to a restaurant and they serve me a plate with many combinations, I tell them: do not give me cuisine to think, I do not want to think to eat.’, told us Paco Torreblanca in a recent interview.

A perfect example of this view is this Blanc de Blancs entremet, from his 2017 collection and featured at so good #17. This creations allows to appreciate the search of new shapes in modern pastry, something very common in the work of Paco Torreblanca and his son Jacob.

Blanc de blancs

vanilla sablé

• 500 g cake flour
• 250 g butter
• 60 g egg
• 125 g confectioners’ sugar
• 2 g salt
• 1 uvanilla bean

Sift the flour together with the confectioners’ sugar. Place the butter in the bowl of a mixer together with the flour, salt, sugar and vanilla and mix until it forms a dough. Finally add the egg and ensure the dough has a proper consistency.
Laminate on position 2, cut and shape depending to the desired mold. On this occasion, we have used a 16-cm-wide base. It is important to sheet the dough the previous day and leave to set at 5ºC in the refrigerator so as to prevent it from deforming when baked.
Bake at 180ºC for approximately 15 minutes to a golden color. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

vanilla bavaroise

• 1 l milk
• 360 g sugar
• 12 u gelatin sheets
• 320 g egg yolks
• 850 g whipped cream
• 1 u Tahitian vanilla bean

Make a crème anglaise with the milk, sugar, egg yolks and vanilla bean. Once cooked to 85ºC, add the gelatin sheets, previously hydrated and drained. Whisk to dissolve. Finally allow the crème anglaise to cool down to 30ºC and add the whipped cream. It is essential to control the temperatures properly so that the resulting bavaroise is creamy and smooth. Use the bavaroise as well to fill the quenelle-shaped mold which will be used to decorate the cake.

apricot and vanilla insert

• 1000 g apricot purée
• 400 g sugar
• 34 g pectin
• 1 u vanilla bean

Mix the sugar with the pectin. Add the melted apricot purée and vanilla bean. Simmer the mixture for one minute and strain into disks. Freeze until needed.

blanc de blancs glaze

• 150 g mineral water
• 300 g sugar
• 300 g glucose
• 200 g condensed milk
• 16 g gelatin sheets
• 300 g white chocolate couverture
• q.s. white fat-soluble color

Boil the water together with the sugar, glucose and condensed milk. Add the gelatin, previously hydrated in iced water and drained. Pour the previous mixture over the chocolate and emulsify. Optionally, a vanilla bean can be added if we want to see the vanilla seeds in the final glaze.

Montage

Use two equal flattened molds.
Fill with bavaroise and place the apricot and vanilla insert into the mold which will be the base.
Freeze, unmold and join both parts.
Glaze and place on top of the sablé base.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

The post Blanc de blancs by Paco y Jacob Torreblanca appeared first on so good.. magazine.

On April 4 and 5, Lincoln Carson was at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn  sharing his knowledge on plated desserts.

The owner of Lincoln Heavy Industries not only taught advanced techniques such as sous vide and plating with an emphasis on balance, seasonality and texture, but also revealed everything that inspires him to make his creations.

The attendees were able to practice tempering, ganache, mousse formulation, ice creams, sorbets, sponges, meringues, sauces and choux, prepare all the components and finish plating for a multicourse dessert tasting experience, and watch how Carson creates elegant dishes like the Illanka abstract step by step, whose complete recipe we share below.

Illanka abstract

supple Illanka cake

• 340 g Illanka Chocolate
• 225 g butter
• 285 g sugar
• 285 g eggs
• 115 g Bonal Gentian
• 20 g AP flour

Melt chocolate to 45C.
Gently melt butter, keep emulsified during this process.
Combine the chocolate and butter.
Combine eggs and sugar.
Add chocolate mixture to the eggs/ sugar.
Add Bonal vermouth.
Add flour.
Bake at 315F in a lined half sheet pan until just set.

Illanka mousse

• 360 g Illanka chocolate
• 450 g cream, whipped to full volume
• 260 g cream
• 345 g milk
• 105 g yolks
• 55 g sugar

Create a custard base by bringing sugar, milk and cream to a scald.
Utilizing an immersion blender quickly pour the hot liquid into the yolks and blend to create custard. Return to the heat if it is necessary to thicken custard further.
Scale out 385 of finished custard base.
Emulsify the scaled custard base into the previously melted chocolate to create a ganache.
Fold the whipped cream into the ganache base (which should be at 45C) in four stages, taking care to maintain as much volume as possible.

peanut praline

• 400 g sugar
• 230 g water
• 500 peanuts, raw

Combine water and sugar and cook to 236F. Add peanuts, cook while stirring to encourage crystallization. Lower heat, melt the crystallized sugar, caramelizing and coating nuts completely.

peanut powder

• 280 g peanut butter
• 80 g tapioca maltodextrin
• 1 g salt

Combine all ingredients in a robot coupe and pulse until powder forms.
Take care not to over blend to the point where the powder becomes a solid mass.

peanut butter cremeaux

• 300 g smooth peanut butter
• 300 g milk
• 20 g glucose syrup
• 4 eg gold gelatin leaves
• 495 g Valrhona Bahibe
• 600 g heavy cream

Melt the chocolate to 110F gently.
Simultaneously bring the milk and glucose to a scald.
Add the bloomed gelatin to the milk.
Strain and add the milk in stages to the chocolate, emulsifying with a rubber spatula to obtain a smooth texture. Finish with a hand blender.
Add the peanut butter and blend.
Add the cream and blend.
Allow to crystallize overnight in refrigerator.

peanut butter ganache

• 625 g smooth peanut butter
• 200 g Bahibe
• 125 g cocoa butter
• 100 g feulletine

Mix peanut butter on low speed until smooth.
Melt chocolate and cocoa butter together.
Add chocolate to the peanut butter and mix thoroughly.
Chill mixture while whipping with whisk attachment (or alternately use Liquid Nitrogen after adding feulletine)
Fold in feulletine.
Pour onto a silpat-lined half sheet pan.
Allow to crystallize in refrigerator then break into small pieces.

crunchy mousse

• 150 g cold water
• 5 g Methocel F50
• 150 g Illanka
• 80 g milk
• 150 g egg whites
• 30 sugar
• 155 Methocel mix
• 45 sugar

Using a vitaprep, shear the methocel into the water on high speed for 30 seconds.
Allow to hydrate for one hour and up to one day in refrigerator.
Whip the methocel and 45g sugar in a mixer on high speed until full volume.
Emulsify the milk into the melted chocolate, and set aside.
Whip the whites on medium speed and add the 30g of sugar when they begin to froth. Whip to soft peaks.
Fold the meringue into the ganache and then fold the methocel into this.
Spread on lightly greased acetate and dehydrate overnight until crunchy.

Finishing

Set Illanka mousse on supple cake and allow to set completely before cutting to desired shape.
Using a plain pastry tip, pipe cremeaux as desired.
Garnish with remaining ingredients.

The post Illanka abstract by Lincoln Carson with peanut and crunchy mousse appeared first on so good.. magazine.

There are winds of change in Argentina. Based on great doses of perseverance and passion, Chef Luciano García is succeeding in introducing a taste for an updated, balanced, subtly Argentine pastry despite being clearly related to The French classics in the hearts of the new generations that pass through the OTT College of Buenos Aires.

Pastry that Luciano not only teaches, but is also successfully introducing in the OTT Warehouse, an establishment attached to the school. There, he offers creations like the three shown in these pages.

Elegant presentations that combine two or three ingredients with brilliance. Products that not only seduce the customers in Buenos Aires, but also demonstrate the gastronomic potential of good pastry.

‘Revisiting a classic tart, my objective is mainly to find the right balance between textures and flavors. On this occasion, the chocolate comes in a creamy, intense shape, and is rounded by the freshness of mango, lime and lychee.’

Chocolate, mango and lychee meringue tart

pâte brisée

• 250 g flour
• 125 g butter, chilled and diced
• 30 g confectioners’ sugar
• 3 g salt
• 40 ml water, chilled
• 10 g vanilla extract

Make a sandy dough with the flour and butter dice. Add the sugar and salt. Finally beat in the egg and, if needed, some water. Make two fresaiges and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll out to 4 mm and line a 20x20x3-cm frame. Refrigerate again and bake at 170ºC to a slightly golden color.

dark chocolate appareil

• 190 g cream
• 75 ml milk
• 50 g eggs
• 150 g semi-sweet chocolate

Make a ganache with the cream, milk and chocolate. Add the eggs, making sure they are fully incorporated. Cast over the pâte brisée and bake at 100ºC for approximately 25 minutes. Make sure the egg is perfectly set, preventing the preparation from boiling. Allow to cool.

macerated mango

• 1 u mango
• 100 g sugar
• 100 ml water
• 1 u lime zest

Make a syrup with the sugar and water until it reaches a boil. Infuse the lime zest and allow to cool completely. Cut the mango into 1×1 cm cubes and macerate in the syrup in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

lychee meringues

• 100 g egg whites
• 200 g sugar
• 3 g lychee essence

Make a Swiss meringue and give some extra flavor with the lychee essence. Pipe in the shape of small dollops with the help of a pastry bag fitted with a #9 tip and dry in a 100ºC oven.

Assembly

Garnish all the surface with the macerated mango cubes and scatter with meringue buttons.
Finish with some lime zest

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

The post Chocolate, mango and lychee meringue tart by Luciano García appeared first on so good.. magazine.

In l’École Valrhona Brooklyn, from the 24th to the 26th of April, William Werner revealed what is behind the scenes of one of the country’s best patisseries, Craftsman and Wolves, one of the stars of so good #17.

With the aim of teaching a variety of plated desserts techniques (suitable for plated desserts, buffets, and bakery display cases) and discussing the importance of branding and creativity in business, he gave advice to take creativity to a higher level.

An interesting course in which attendees had the opportunity to produce pastry elements from Craftsman and Wolves pâtisserie culminating in an eye catching seasonally driven spread, explore an ever-changing menu of pastries, cakes, entremets, breads, confections and confitures, and listen to Werner’s ideas on creating and managing a successful pastry brand.

As a sample of what was giving in the seminar, we bring you this Chocolate Peanut Caramel, which combines a product as American as peanut with Orizaba chocolate, playing with different elements and textures ranging from the crunch of a Chocolate cornflake nests or cocoa nibs, to the intensity of the chocolate-coated ganache or peanut caramel.

Chocolate peanut caramel

chocolate daquoise

• 247 g almond flour
• 284 g sugar 1
• 18 g cup for cup flour
• 18 g cocoa powder
• 295.5 g whites
• 69 g sugar 2

Sift all dries together.
Make meringue with sugar 2 and whites.
Fold dries into meringue.
Raplette at bar 10
Bake at 350F for 30 minutes.
Cut into 1.5”x1.5” squares.

house peanut butter

• 450 g peanuts
• 45 g sugar
• 10 g salt
• 45 g peanut oil

Toast peanuts at 315 for 15 minutes or until golden brown.
Put in robot coupe with sugar and salt and blend.
Drizzle in peanut oil until peanut butter is still slightly chunky.

peanut caramel

• 275 g powdered sugar
• 250 g cream
• 25 g glucose
• 150 g house peanut butter

Make a LIGHT dry caramel with the powdered sugar.
Deglaze with warmed cream and glucose.
Cool to 55C.
Stir in peanut butter.
Cast in small pallet mold.

whipped orizaba ganache

• 226 g cream 1
• 26 g trimoline
• 26 g glucose
• 310 g orizaba milk chocolate
• 580 g cream 2

Melt chocolate to 45C.
Bring cream 1, trimoline, and glucose to 50C.
Emulsify with melted chocolate. burr mix in cold cream 2.
Let mature 12 hours and whip when needed.

chocolate cornflake nests

• 257 g satilia 62%
• 66 g cocoa butter
• 66 g coconut oil
• 177 g corn flake
• 106 g rice crispies (crushed to a powder)
• 1 g maldon salt
• 1 g vanilla powder

Melt satilia, cocoa butter, and coconut oil to 45C.
Add corn flake, rice crispies, salt and vanilla powder.
Stir to 29C and pack 25G per mould, freeze.

cocoa nib croquant

• 300 g powdered sugar **SIFTED
• 300 g cocoa nibs

In a pot, melt sifted powdered sugar and cocoa nibs on number 10-12.
Stir vigorously and constantly. pour onto silpat and immediately roll flat and thin.
while warm cut out circles .5” in diameter.
Shape on a gouttière.
Store with silica gel.

chocolate glaze

• 225 g cream
• 310 g satilia 62%
• 600 g absolu cristal

Emulsify warm cream and chocolate melted at 45C.
Add melted absolu cristal (70-80C).
Strain and refrigerate.

Finishing

Cut cake to fit inside mould. Pipe a mound of peanut caramel and freeze.
Whip orizaba ganache and pipe into the mould filling up ⅔.
Insert cake and peanut caramel even with base of the mould.
Freeze, unmould, spray and place onto of cornflake nest.
Allow to temper in the refrigerator, covered for 2 hours before garnishing.
Pipe a dot soft chocolate ganache off center and a piece of caramelized cocoa nib.

The post Chocolate peanut caramel by William Werner appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Today, 16 May, on the occasion of International Coeliac Day, organized by the Association of European Coeliac Societies, we share the Ghana cake recipe by Jordi Bordas published in Dulycpas # 442, with which he succeeds in banishing the idea that bakery free of gluten or lactose is bland or dry. Using his particular B • Concept method, it does not replace the allergen with another alternate, but designs a new piece balanced in taste, texture, and humidity.

In the next so good # 19 we will showcase new creations from the pastry chef, winner of the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2011.

Ghana Chocolate Cake

Recipe for 6 cakes measuring 19×4, 5×6 cm with tube mold

cake 60% Sao Palme

• 207 g almond flour
• 207 g luster sugar
• 177 g pasteurized egg yolks
• 353 g pasteurized egg whites
• 94 g brown rice flour
• 6 g impeller
• 128 g coconut oil
• 259 g 60% Sao Palme dark couverture

Grease the cake molds with coconut oil and rice flour. Put the almond flour with the luster sugar in the food processor to make a fine powder.
Place the previous mixture in the bowl of the mixer. Mount and gradually incorporate the yolks and the whites in the mixer at medium speed. Sift the flour together with the impeller.
Melt the coconut oil with the couverture at 45ºC in the microwave. Add one part of the smoothie to the mixture of the cover and the coconut oil. Work lightly with a spatula and add the rest. Then add the flour and the impeller and mix gently with a spatula.
Mold and bake in the oven at 150ºC for 22 minutes with the valve closed.
Cool for 1 hour in the refrigerator, unmold and freeze.

60% Sao Palme creme

• 220 g dark coverage Sao Palme
• 3.3 g liquid lecithin Soda
• 8.5 g sunflower oil
• 320 g water

Melt the coating at 45 ° C and add lecithin and oil. Ensure a temperature of 20 ° C in the water and gradually add to the coating mixture, emulsifying intensively with the food processor. Cool in a refrigerator until it crystallizes.

Sao Thome 60% coating

• 436 g dark chocolate Sao Palme 60%
• 85 g coconut oil

Melt the chocolate and coconut oil at 50°C in the microwave oven.

weight per cake

• 220 g cake Sao Palme
• 85 g creme Sao Palme
• 80 g Sao Palme enrobbing
• 90 g cocoa nibs Qroqant Felchlin

Assembly

Fill the creme inside the frozen cake and keep in the fridge. Bring the temperature of the Sao Palme coating to 29ºC, Coat the cakes and cover them completely with cocoa nibs.

The post Gluten-free and lactose-free Ghana chocolate cake by Jordi Bordas appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
On May 1st, 2nd and 3rd, L’École Valrhona Brooklyn was visited by Patrice Demers (so good # 13), TV celebrity, award-winning cookbook author, and one of Canada’s best pastry chefs.

A course dedicated to Intensive Pastry Plated Desserts & Petits Gâteaux where Patrice made sweet creations that he produces in his acclaimed pastry shop in Montreal, Patrice Pâtissier. During the three days of the course, different techniques related to the preparation of contemporary high-class pastry, such as the preparation of sponge cakes, mousses and elements for the final decoration, came to light.

He also shared experiences and motivations with attendees, as well as teaching the importance of getting the exact balance in the combination of flavors and textures. A good example of this we have with this classic European pastry, the “Foret noir” or Black Forest, which at the hands of the Canadian pastry chef, acquires this spectacular result.

Photos: Daniela Constantini

Black Forest cake

Recipe calculated for 5 frames of 11cmX35cm

Coeur de Guanaja cake

• 200 g P125 Coeur de Guanaja
• 80 g canola oil
• 80 g butter
• 360 g egg whites
• 375 g sugar
• 380 g egg yolks
• 60 g flour
• 60 g corn starch
• 30 g Valrhona cocoa powder
• 4 g salt

Melt P125 Coeur de Guanaja, butter and canola oil together.
In a mixer, whip egg whites and sugar until soft peaks form. With the mixer at low speed, add egg yolks and mix until just combined.
Sift dry ingredients and incorporate them while folding with a whisk in the egg mixture.
Pour in a full sheet pan and cook at 177°C (350°F) for about 14 minutes.

sour cherry jelly

• 1500 g sour cherry purée
• 375 g water
• 225 g sugar
• 2 ea vanilla bean
• 18 ea gelatine sheets
• 75 g kirsh

Heat sour cherry purée with water, sugar and vanilla bean.
Add gelatin sheets and kirsh, let cool to room temperature.

Opalys chocolate and buckwheat whipped ganache

• 150 g toasted buckwheat
• 550 g whipping cream
• 3 g salt
• 50 g glucose
• 50 g invert sugar
• 500 g Opalys 33% chocolate
• 1000 g whipping cream

Heat buckwheat in the oven at 177°C (350°F) for 4 minutes.
Bring 550 g of cream to boil, take off the heat, add buckwheat, cover and let infuse for 4 minutes.
Strain through a fine strainer and correct the weight to 450 g.
Bring back to boil with salt, invert sugar and glucose.
Gradually pour the boiling hot mixture over the chopped OPALYS 33% chocolate, stirring from the center to create a shiny elastic core, showing the start of an emulsion. Maintain this texture right to the end of the mixing stage.
Continue mixing, gradually adding the liquid. Mix with a handheld mixer to finish.
Add the remaining cream while mixing.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours to crystallize.

Asembly and finishing

Using 5 frames of 11cmX35cm cut the cake.
Divide the jelly in 5 and pour in each frame on the cakes. Leave in the fridge to set for 6 hours.
Using a paring knife, unmold the cakes from the frames and cut them in 11cmX16cm rectangles.
Whip the Opalys Chocolate and Buckwheat Ganache to soft peaks and pipe on each cake using a flat tip.
Garnish with fresh Bing cherries cut in quarters, some crystalized buckwheat and shards of tempered dark chocolate.

The post Black forest cake by Patrice Demers appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Two pillars support the Pastelería Glea in Murcia, run by Abel Bravo and his partner, Poli Gómez: land and innovation. Glea means land in panocho, a local dialect of this part of the Spanish coast. And in pastry terms it translates to a firm commitment to citrus and fruits that in many cases come from the very garden that Abel’s family owns. Citrus, almond, but also the most popular combinations of the area, starting with the most important cake in the region, a savory product based on puff pastry called meat pie. The second of the pillars is innovation or modernity. Having mainly trained in Barcelona by the hand of some of the city’s great chefs (Carles Mampel, Josep Maria Rodríguez – so good #15 and so good #8-, Rafael Delgado), Abel Bravo has developed a taste for new formats, for unglazed cakes, for extremely fresh products and, at the same time, for perfection in the finishes. This is clearly seen in all their variety of products that go from pastries and savory products, to a spectacular collection of bonbons.

The combination of local demand with the air of modernity results in something totally new in a city like Murcia, which despite having about half a million inhabitants is not very used to this type of offer which is so refined and current. “At first, we didn’t know how people would react,” Poli says, “it scared us a little.” Fortunately, after a few months, the public acknowledges Glea, “ they know our products and know what they want,” Abel explains.

This is contributed by the fact that they always use ingredients that are very recognizable to the public in the area and, in addition to identifying the flavors on the labels, they can identify the flavors later on the palate. Abel Bravo refers to this by saying that “one must be honest”, another aspect that places his proposal as a reference to the most restless pastry that is done today.

‘In Glea one can breathe the winds of modernity without losing the local reference, using the products offered by the fertile land of Murcia’

Citric green

basic meringue for the mousse

• 28 g dextrose
• 69 g atomized glucose
• 102 g pasteurized egg whites

light Ivoire-lemon mousse

• 500 g lemon juice
• 400 g Ivoire white couverture
• 90 g cocoa butter
• 20 g powdered gelatin
• 100 g water (for gelation)
• 800 g cream, whipped to soft peaks
• 20 g lime zest
• 200 g basic meringues

Melt the couverture to 45ºC. Combine with the melted cocoa butter. Add the previously hydrated and melted gelatin and make an emulsion with the lemon juice at 30ºC. Dissolve the sugars in the egg whites at 45ºC. Whip the meringue. Add the lemon juice emulsion at 32ºC to the meringue. Finally, add the semi-whipped cream together with the lime zest.

almond crumble

• 200 g brown sugar
• 264 g almond powder
• 276 g cake flour
• 220 g butter
• 2.6 g salt

Mix all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a paddle. Pass through a 0.3 mm sieve. Bake at 140ºC for 26 minutes.

almond and lemon praliné

• 1000 g almonds
• 400 g sugar
• 50 g lemon zest

Mix all the ingredients in a food processor to a homogeneous texture.

almond and lemon croustillant

• 920 g almond crumble
• 821 g almond and lemon praliné

Combine both preparations and reserve.

lime peel compote

• 180 g lime peel
• 160 g sugar
• 30 g glucose
• 140 g lime juice
• 8 g NH pectin
• 0.3 g citric acid
• 72 g butter

Blanch the lime peel three times (changing the water each time). Make the last cooking last for 25 minutes. Drain well, transfer to a food processor together with half the amount of sugar, glucose and lemon juice and process. Strain the resulting mixture and heat to 40ºC, adding then the remaining amount of sugar together with the pectin. Cook to 90ºC and add the citric acid. Allow to cool down to 50ºC and emulsify with the butter. Reserve.

Montage

Spread 20 g of almond and lemon croustillant in the oval mold.
Pipe 40 g of light Ivoire-lemon mousse.
Finish with 15 g of lime peel compote.
Garnish with chocolate plaquettes, citrus fruits, dehydrated meringue and thyme-lemon.

Concept

Concentrating the flavor in the green citrus fruit peels – lime and lemon.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

The post Citric green by Abel Bravo appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
From May 22 to 24, Derek Poirier, named one of the 2014 Top 10 Pastry Chefs in America, gave a Chocolate Bonbons level 1 course at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn, designed for professionals who want to learn the basics and technological know-how of chocolate and its transformations.

Derek Poirier has represented the USA and Canada in world pastry competitions, including in 2003 and 2005, as a member of Team USA at the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie in Lyon, France. He has also acted as advisor to the teams that were presented in the 2009 and 2011 teams. During the course, he taught techniques to develop perfect textures, as well as tempering and coating to achieve a custom piece collection.

The students created ganaches and pralines with different textures, designed chocolate bonbons with great variety of forms and flavors, and enrobed manually and with a machine. Among all the creations, we highlight this elegant grapefruit ganache, with an original sphere format and a refreshing taste in mouth, which values its two main ingredients, Opalys white chocolate and grapefruit.

Grapefruit ganache

• 160 g sugar
• 25 g glucose
• 55 g water
• 265 g grapefruit purée
• 55 g butter
• 170 g Opalys 33% chocolate
• 5 g grapefruit zest

Heat the purée to 60°C (140°F) and infuse with the grapefruit zests for 10 minutes. Strain.
Cook the sugar, glucose and water to 185°C (365°F). Stop the cooking with the purée.
Heat again to 103°C (217°F), stop the cooking and let the temperature fall to 60-70°C (140-158°F) before making an emulsion with the melted Opalys 33% chocolate.
At 35°C (95°F) add the butter, blend and fill some hollow white chocolate shells. Leave to set for 12 hours at 17°C (63°F) and 60% humidity. Make sure the temperature of the ganache is below 30°C (86°F) when filling the hollow shells.

The post Grapefruit ganache by Derek Poirier appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Quebec is, so far, the last place this itchy-feet pâtissier has settled down in. He headed for that city with the idea of setting up a new Chocolate Academy there, and suddenly found himself immersed in Nature, finding some new interesting resources for his ever-chocolatey creations.

We are referring to the master Philippe Vancayseele, a giant both professionally and on the human side, who is happy to share his latest works with us – three elegant proposals, not complicated in the manufacturing and precious both visually and esthetically.

As Vancayseele himself says, ‘food is not only to survive’. It can also be a pleasure and reach high beauty stages. It all depends on the sensitivity and the magic which come out of the chef’s hands. The pictures speak for themselves.

‘Travelling all over the world is always a special experience, especially in relation to a touch of the local and cultural gastronomy. Food is not only to survive, but also to enjoy, discover, the curiosity and passion of what we create.
For hundreds, thousands of years, we have always been looking for the “special” ingredient or method that gives the satisfaction of our creations. Since I came to Canada, more precisely, the Province of Quebec, in June last year as the Director of the Chocolate Academy Center in Canada, I was surprised how Canadians are passionate about food, and I’m not talking about junk food, but the real gastronomic restaurants and auberges.
Montreal, Vancouver, Toronto, Winnipeg, Calgary…etc. All those cities have not only very good and top level restaurants, but also outstanding pastry and chocolate shops. More and more foreigners are coming to Canada to start a business in the food sector with a variety of good products and food culture, all in a very nice atmosphere.
That’s why Canadians just enjoy it, at all seasons.
If you are keen on a gastronomic tour in for example Montreal, make sure your name is on the reservation list.’

The universe of the Bleuet

bleuet ganache

• 300 g fresh wild blueberries (bleuets sauvages) from Quebec
• 75 g cream, 35% fat
• 25 g sorbitol (powder)
• pinch of “Fleur de Sel”
• 30 g butter
• 500 g Zephir white couverture

Boil the bleuets, cream, sorbitol and salt together. Pour over the white couverture and homogenize with a hand blender. Finally at 35ºC add the butter. Prepare a half-sphere mold sprayed with white dots and blue color. Make a shell with the Zephir white couverture. Fill up the crystallized ganache in the mold and leave to harden in the fridge.

Finishing

Spread 2 thin layers of couverture on top of each other, first milk, and then white. Sprinkle ground cumin on top of the white couverture. Remove the half-sphere from the mold and push into the layered couvertures. Remove the bonbon with a round cutter.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #10

The post Bleuet (blueberry) chocolate bonbon by Philippe Vancayseele appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Ice cream has many derivatives in the restaurants of the group elBarri, by Albert Adrià. The pastry chef of this restauration group, David Gil, only reveals the tip of the iceberg in this article, some of his most interesting in very different establishments in Barcelona. Ice cream is the key to desserts which are truly varied, all avant-garde, from the frozen air of the ultra-light version of the strawberry and cream ice cream cake of the restaurant Tickets, the Fresier; to the intense basil sorbet of the dessert Wild Strawberry Aspic, at Bodega 1900; passing through the Mexican Mango Millefeuille, of Niño Viejo. In these restaurants, ice cream is taken beyond what is usually understood of in this product category, in a space where it is also presented under the influence of liquid nitrogen, Japanese kakigoris, and more conventional granitas, unbalanced nut ice creams, completing a wide range of techniques performed at temperatures below 0ºC.

David Gil talks about ice cream making which focuses on flavor within the framework of an experimental kitchen. However, unlike other haute cuisine restaurants, ice cream is not only thought and formulated for a short commercial life. It depends on the needs and goals for each ice cream. Gil graduated from the Hofmann School in the Catalan capital and extended his vision of the trade in Can Jubany to then continue in Le Calandre, Bras-Laguiole and Mugaritz.

‘This is an elegant dessert which perfectly fits in one of our classic restaurants – Bodega 1900. It is based on two concepts. On the one side, the French aspics – a type of tasteless jelly, molded and aromatized, used in the preparation of cold dishes of ham, foie gras, seafood, vegetables and even fruit. And on the other side, it meets the need for creating a very fresh sorbet, which reflected the deep green color of chlorophyll. This is reason why we refused to use a dairy base to work it, and that is why it is made and consumed on the same day so that the basil – the main character in this plate – does not oxidize or darken. In the restaurant, the base syrup for the sorbet is made in advance, and when it comes to serving, the basil leaves are crushed roughly for 30 seconds, as they would oxidize if done for a longer time. From the very moment that the basil comes into play, the different preparation steps must be carried out steadily, otherwise the attractive green color of chlorophyll would be lost.
In order to compensate the sugars in the base syrup, we add some lime juice, whose acidity decreases the sweetness of the sorbet and intensifies its green color. Also, it is important to add the lime juice right before the mix is transferred to the ice cream machine’

Wild strawberry aspic (Bodega 1900 Restaurant)

strawberry water

• 1000 g frozen strawberries
• 100 g sugar

Place the strawberries with the sugar in a plastic wrap-covered bowl. Pierce the plastic wrap with a knife and heat in the microwave oven for 12 minutes. Strain and reserve the resulting water.

strawberry marinade

• 200 g strawberry water (see above)
• 200 g strawberries, cut into fourths
• 50 g Modena vinegar
• 20 g brown sugar
• ½ u orange peel
• 1 u thyme stem
• 1 u rosemary stem

Dissolve the brown sugar to make a caramel. Add the strawberries and then the balsamic vinegar and allow to evaporate for 10 seconds. Add the strawberry water and leave to cool in a container together with the thyme, rosemary and orange peel. Remove the strawberries to obtain the resulting liquid only.

basil sorbet

• 1100 g water
• 320 g sucrose
• 100 g powdered glucose
• 52 g liquid glycerin
• 6.8 g stabilizer
• 1000 g of base syrup
• 200 g basil leaves
• 150 g lime juice

Combine the water and glycerin and heat up to 45ºC. Sprinkle in the sucrose, together with the glucose and stabilizer, previously mixed. Cook to 82ºC. Allow to cool down and mature for 24 hours. Process the base syrup and basil in a Thermomix for 30 seconds. Strain and add the lime juice right before spinning in the ice cream machine.

strawberry aspic*

• 150 g wild strawberries
• 150 g strawberry marinade
• 0.80 g agar agar
• pepper
• oil
• strawberry Lyo
• strawberry Crispis

*It is made with agar agar because we wanted a very subtle jelly. Using gelatin sheets would result in a hard jelly.

Place the wild strawberries in a round mold covered with plastic wrap. Boil a part of the marinade with the agar agar, remove from the heat and add the remaining marinade. Cover the strawberries with the marinade and allow to gel in the refrigerator.

other

• strawberry Crispis
• strawberry Lyo

Montage

Unmold the jelly onto the center of a round glass plate.
On one edge, place a spoonful of strawberry Crispis and four pieces of strawberry Lyo on top and use as a base for the quenelle.
Place the basil sorbet quenelle on top of the strawberry Crispis.
In a circular way, drizzle the strawberry marinade over the jelly, followed by a thin stream of olive oil and a bit of black pepper.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #18

The post Strawberry aspic by David Gil appeared first on so good.. magazine.

If the concept of sweet cuisine could be personalized in a particular pastry chef, this could well be Rafa Delgado. Perhaps this has to do with his also savory training and his passage through Mugaritz, elBulli, Alkimia or his current activity in Can Jubany. His desserts are fresh and ephemeral, cooked for the client as immediately as possible. He does not manufacture and freeze elements that are then unmolded and placed on a plate in a serialized way, but conceives the dessert as a whole that is cooked, sautéed, plated, and salted as if it were a unique work of art.

There is a controlled anarchy in all of this that leads to a very personal ending, and a game that provokes the reaction of the diner. It’s a chutney that ends up being a mango-toffee-ginger risotto; a peach in syrup that turns into gnocchi, and a rocky panacotta landscape, tomato comfit and balsamic cream, three creations that Rafa Delgado offers us exclusively in these pages. ‘I do not use trendy techniques for personal display if it is not reflected positively on the plate and if they do not respect the product,’ he says.

‘It is like ratcheting up the typical peach in syrup. Cutting the peach by using a potato baller and the nappage in its own juice create a visual effect resembling peach gnocchi. It is the synergy between the sweet and savory worlds both regarding the aesthetics and the techniques.
The combination of peach and tamarind reminds us of the inside of the peach, that part which is in contact with the pit and which has an acidic, earthy flavor.’

Peach gnocchi

peach gnocchi

• yellow peach from Calanda
• peach liqueur
• sugar
• vanilla

Wash and peel the peach.
With the help of a baller, make gnocchi with the peach.
Caramelize the sugar and add the peach.
Sauté and deglaze with the peach liqueur.
Cover completely with water, add some tablespoons of sugar (depending on the sweetness of the peaches, add more or less sugar) and the scraped vanilla.
Allow to cook for a few minutes.
Reserve in the refrigerator for 4 hours.

peach velouté

• 30 g liquid from cooking the peach
• 17 g corn starch

Dissolve the corn starch in the cold liquid and bring to a boil.
Strain and reserve covered with plastic wrap in the refrigerator.

peach sorbet

• 218 g sorbet
• 125 g sugar
• 93 g liquid glucose
• 362 g peach purée
• 40 g lemon juice
• 10 g peach Kuhri

Make a syrup with the water and sugar and, once cool, mix with the remaining ingredients in the container of a Pacojet. Freeze.

tamarind paste

Make a tamarind paste sifted with the help of some hot water.
Once cooled, transfer to a pastry bag and reserve.

other

• atsina cress

You will also find this two recipes in so good #17

The post Peach gnocchi by Rafa Delgado appeared first on so good.. magazine.

He became acquainted with high-class artisan pastry by the hand of Paco and Jacob Torreblanca and also high quality industrial pastry in Barry Callebaut Pastry Manufacturing. He even spent a year in China developing products for the hostelry sector. Now, for two years, pastry chef Andrés Morán has been making healthy desserts at the Sha Wellness Clinic, (L’Albir, Alicante).

The ingredients he uses are natural, mostly integral and of ecological and sustainable origin, and also, he assures us, beneficial for one’s health.There is no trace of dairy products, eggs, margarines, sugars and refined flours in his desserts… nor of course artificial colors or preservatives. And the flavor? More intense, clean and authentic.

At So Good #18, he reveals how he achieve this, for instance with this plated dessert.

Yuzu yolks with basil ice cream

30 pax

ginger and citrus fruit crescent

• 600 g almond powder
• 300 g rice flour
• 300 g rice molasses
• 100 g sunflower oil
• 50 g water
• 2 g salt
• 10 g ginger, grated
• 5 g lemon zest
• 5 g orange zest

Mix all the ingredients in the bowl of a mixer and spread on a silicone mat. Cut with the help of crescent-shaped rings and bake at 160ºC for 13 minutes. Cut into circles with a 3-cm cutter.

yuzu yolks

• 600 g rice cream
• 1.000 g yuzu purée
• 10 g lemon zest
• 800 g rice molasses
• 14 g iota

Mix all the ingredients and cook in a food processor at 80ºC. Strain and pipe into small and medium hemisphere molds.

Dry lime crescents

• 200 g lime

Cut the limes into halves and slice. Place in the drying oven at 50ºC for 3 hours.

basil ice cream

• 440 g mandarin juice
• 130 g lemon juice
• 80 g basil
• 480 g rice molasses
• 800 g rice cream
• 14 g agar agar

Mix all the ingredients well except the basil and cook to a boil. Transfer to a food processor and add the basil. Blend well until the basil is perfectly incorporated. Transfer to Pacojet containers and freeze. Churn at serving time.

celery gel

• 450 g green apple juice
• 300 g celery juice
• 300 g rice molasses
• 7 g agar

Mix all the ingredients well.
Cook in a saucepan to a boil, allow to cool and transfer to a food processor to obtain the gel.

green sand

• 100 g pistachio
• 200 g coconut, shredded
• 2 g matcha tea

Mix well all the ingredients.

agave

• 200 g maple syrup

Brush the ginger and citrus fruit crescents to fix the green sand to it.

You will also find this two recipes in so good #18

The post Yuzu yolks with basil ice cream by Andrés Morán appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Last August, Sarah Tibbetts, who joined Valrhona as L’École Valrhona Pastry Chef Eastern USA in 2012, gave a two-day course at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn on modern buffet, very popular in major events and celebrations of all kinds.

The chef drew on her extensive experience in some of America’s most prestigious hotels and restaurants to meet the objectives of training: exploring the role of flavor and texture in smaller desserts and teaching visually appealing displays with seasonal inspiration.

Attendees, in addition to creating desserts in a small format, including verrines, cakes, petits gateaux, macarons, and various sweets, acquired notions on how to use color and seasonal accents to design a finished buffet.

Praline Mallomar is one of the delicate pieces made during the course, which you can create following the step-by-step instructions that we detail below.

Photos: Alex Ayer Photography

Praline mallomar

yields 50 pieces

praline cookie base

• 113 g butter
• 90 g sugar
• 90 g light brown sugar
• 47 g eggs
• 5 g vanilla extract
• 128 g Hazelnut Praline 60%
• 8 g baking powder
• 250 g flour
• 3 g salt

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and both sugars. Add the eggs and vanilla extract- scrape down the sides of the bowl and mix until combined.
Add the Hazelnut Praline, followed by the sifted dry ingredients. Mix just until combined.
Remove from bowl and place between two plastic sheets. Roll to a thickness of 5mm and chill.
Cut with a 3.5cm round cutter and place on a Silpain lined perforated baking tray. Bake at 320F for 5-7 minutes.

marshmallow topping

• 50 g water
• 335 g corn syrup
• 158 g sugar
• 90 g egg whites
• 3 g gelatin
• 15 g waterwhites
• ½ ea. vanilla bean, seeds only

Combine the 1st quantity of water, corn syrup and sugar in a pot and bring to a boil. Bloom gelatin in the 2nd quantity of water.
Start the whip the whites on low speed. When the sugar syrup reaches 248F, slowly pour over the frothy whipped whites. Melt the gelatin and add to the whites, along with the vanilla bean seeds.
Continue to whip on medium speed until thickened but still slightly warm. Use immediately.

bahibe coating

• 500 g Bahibe 46% Milk Chocolate
• 35 g cocoa Butter

Melt the Bahibe chocolate and cocoa butter to 118F and temper. Use immediately.

Assembly and finishing

• 100 g crunch praline
• AN roasted whole hazelnuts
• AN gold luster dust

Arrange baked Praline Cookies on a sheet tray. Make Marshmallow topping and place half in a piping bag fitted with a 9mm straight tip.
Pipe a ring of Marshmallow topping directly on the Praline Cookie Base, leaving a hole in the center. Fill with 2g of Crunch Praline.
Fill another piping bag fitted with an 11mm straight tip with the remaining marshmallow topping. Pipe a dollop of Marshmallow on top.
Let set for 1 hour in a cool place (do not refrigerate) to allow the gelatin to set.
Temper the Bahibe Coating and holding the cookie base, dip the Mallomars into the glaze to coat the Marshmallow. Tap off excess coating and set on Silpat lined sheet pan to let crystallize completely.
Mix gold luster dust with a small amount of neutral alcohol and brush hazelnut pieces. Using a coronet filled with tempered Bahibe Coating, fix the gold hazelnuts to the finished Mallomars and serve.

The post Praline Mallomar by Sarah Tibbetts appeared first on so good.. magazine.