Allergies and special diets have become a topic of great interest in the United States. For this reason, L’École Valrhona Brooklyn organized the course “Rethinking ingredients & pastry trends” taught by Sarah Tibbetts on April 2 and 3. The proposal includes a veggie panna cotta, made with oat milk and a crunchy streusel that avoids wheat and ingredients of animal origin thanks to almonds, rice, and coconut oil.

In an intimate setting, the Valrhona Pastry Chef presented new and inspiring recipes using alternative ingredients and rethinking pastry concepts without losing sight of dietary restrictions. Think Pink is an example of a 100% vegetable origin dessert and which is gluten free.

The students, in addition to learning to bake with unusual products, created bonbons free of allergens and creations without lactose, without gluten, and vegan. Desserts like Think Pink, of which we detail the recipe below.

Photos: Nitzan Rubin

Think Pink

16 servings

strawberry panna cotta

• 200 g strawberry purée
• 300 g oat milk
• 8 g Sosa Pro Panna
• 10 g sugar
• 340 g Strawberry couverture Inspiration
• 500 g cashew yogurt (plain)

In a pot, heat the puree and oat milk to 77°F (25˚C) and add the Pro Panna powder mixed with the sugar. Bring to a boil.
In a bowl, melt the Strawberry Inspiration.
Pour the hot liquid over the melted Strawberry Inspiration in 4 additions, mixing well after each, to create a proper emulsion.
Process with an immersion blender and add cashew yogurt. Blend again.
Pour 70 g per verrine and refrigerate.

almond streusel

=10 g per verrine

• 80 g almond flour
• 80 g raw cane sugar
• 1 g fine sea salt
• 70 g rice flour
• 60 g coconut oil
• 17 g water

Combine the dry ingredients.
Melt the coconut oil and add the warm water.
Pour the coconut oil/water mixture over the dry ingredients and mix until the streusel just comes together.
Spread on a silpan lined perforated sheet pan and bake at 315˚F (157˚C) until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

Strawberry Inspiration Coated Streusel

=10 g per verrine

• 270 g almond streusel
• 135 g Strawberry couvrture Inspiration

After the streusel is baked and cooled, process to a coarse, ground texture.
Mix with the melted Strawberry Inspiration.
Use immediately.

grapefruit sauce

=10 g per dessert

• 100 g fresh pink grapefruit juice
• 150 g Absolu Cristal Neutral Glaze

In a pitcher using an immersion blender, combine all ingredients and blend until smooth.
Refrigerate until ready to use.

grapefruit jelly

=5 g per dessert

• 225 g grapefruit juice
• 2 g agar agar
• 10 g sugar
• 0.5 g citric acid

Heat the grapefruit juice and add the agar agar mixed with the sugar- bring to a boil.
Add citric acid and remove from heat.
Immediately fill mold (Silikomart SFM004) with hot jelly.
Refrigerate until completely set.

verrine garnish

• AN pink grapefruit (segmented)
• AN strawberries (quartered)
• AN Strawberry couvreture Inspiration
• AN Valrhona Signature Silver Speckled transfer sheet

Finishing and Assembly

For décor: use tempered Strawberry Inspiration and Silver Speckled transfer sheet.
Dip the base of a flat bottom glass into the Strawberry Inspiration just to coat and immediately make an imprint on the Silver Speckled transfer sheet. Repeat until the transfer sheet is full and place in a cool place to completely crystalize.
Remove the Strawberry Panna Cotta from the refrigerator and garnish with grapefruit segments and strawberry quarters.
Drizzle the Grapefruit Sauce over the fruit.
Unmold the Grapefruit Jelly and place a few pieces around the fruit.
Finish with Strawberry Inspiration Coated Streusel and décor pieces. Serve immediately.

The post Strawberry, almond and grape ‘Think Pink’ , 100% vegan and gluten free by Sarah Tibbets appeared first on so good.. magazine.

After a year of being published, the book Sweet Devotion by Daniel Álvarez has achieved almost unanimous recognition in the sector as a reference manual for those who wish to start or improve their technique in the production of puff pastry doughs and quality brioches. The explanations in which the author unravels himself to develop each technique, each concept, each key aspect of the kneading, manipulation, or finishing of a product make this book stand out because of its pedagogical spirit.

And one of the star doughs addressed in the book is the croissant which, according to the author, is one of the puff pastry doughs that requires greater precision in the process of folds with butter and subsequent lamination. In addition to offering classic specialties such as the croissant or pain au chocolat, Daniel Álvarez is interested in other more personal formats, such as this spectacular apple carré, with a nice grated finish on top. Do not miss out on all the previous explanations to get the best possible croissant dough, as well as the subsequent handling of the dough depending on the application that is going to be given. We leave you with the details on how to properly carry out the finishes of these delicious carrés. In the book you will also find other carrés finished with apricot or even in a log format and filled with marzipan.

Discover Sweet Devotion

Daniel Álvarez’s Carrés

It is a very eye-catching piece, thanks to the knife cuts that are made in the dough at the top and by the use of a square mold during its fermentation and baking. The juicy interiors of cream and fruit complete a spectacular specialty, both in its mini format and in the family-size version. Use a croissant recipe with three simple folds (see full recipe in the book), as we must multiply the number of sheets to support the weight of the filling. Stretch to 5 mm thick and cut into 16 cm bands. With a sharp knife, make many incisions to make marks without cutting. Cut 8 cm rectangles.

Semi-crystallized apple

• 1000 g apple (preferably Golden or Reinette)
• 600 g sugar

It is vital to select the apples at their optimal point of maturation, for a better result. Cut the apples into eighths and toss them in sugar. Leave to rest in the refrigerator for at least 16 hours so that the flavors mix well. The sugar penetrates the fiber of the apple extracting part of the water and beginning a cold cooking. This process delays the oxidation, which allows us to prepare the apple in advance and have it available. By placing the apple inside the dough, semi-crystallization occurs, which gives rise to a fabulous texture, very creamy and al dente. In addition, as the apple has expelled water, moisture problems regarding.

Almond cream

• 600 g butter
• 1200 g almond flour
• 600 g confectioners’ sugar
• 50 g panela
• 600 g eggs

Beat the softened butter and gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and the almond flour. Mix carefully. Finally, add the eggs one at a time. It is essential to be careful when beating in the eggs. If they are added too slowly and beaten in excess, an excess of air is added to the mixture which then will cause an excessive volume when baked. To lighten the cream of almonds you can add half of its weight in crème pâtissière or cream. It is also possible to scent it to the taste with orange blossom water, orange, lemon, Cointreau, rum, etc.

Montage

Fill with almond cream and dice of semi-crystallized apple. Start rolling up the dough from the part without cuts so that they are visible. Position the pieces so that the closure is underneath. It is important to form the piece as seen in the photos, otherwise the dough would have an unwanted behavior during the fermentation and baking and the folds would open.

Place in a mold, previously greased and sprinkled with sugar, and leave to ferment at 26-28ºC for 2 hours. Apply an egg yolk and cream wash and bake at 180ºC for 20 minutes. To make the mini carrés, roll and place in cake molds. When extracted from the oven, glaze and place back in the oven for an additional minute so that the icing crystallizes.

You will find the apricot-coconut and marzipan carré recipes in Sweet Devotion

The post Apple and almond croissant dough carré by Daniel Álvarez appeared first on so good.. magazine.

The Belgian Pascal De Deyne is a pastry enthusiast, Executive Pastry Chef at Van Dender‘s. He is very aware that you can always learn things if you have the right mentality and attitude. The appearance of his creations is very effective, Pascal De Deyne takes into account the choice of flavors, which he prefers to be harmonious and simple, and to show an original work, in this case especially inspired by nature. A nature to taste.

At so good #21 he showcased ‘The Rock’ travel cake. This is a deconstructed cake full of flavors, textures, and slightly spiced, with an exotic crémeux and a soft hazelnut ganache.

Photos: Debic

For the decoration, I use a ‘chef cut’, water cutter, with which I get a meticulous and clean result. The deer represents the name of my family – ‘deer hunter’, and is also part of my logo.

Orange syrup

• 300 g orange juice
• 100 g glucose syrup

Boil both ingredients, use immediately.

Cake de voyage

• 520 g icing sugar
• 200 g flour
• 6 g baking powder
• 190 g almond powder
• 290 g noisette butter
• 50 g honey
• 430 g egg whites
• 3 oranges

Sieve the flour, icing sugar, almond powder and the baking powder. Zest the oranges and mix with the beurre noisette and honey. Combine. Pour in the liquid egg whites and mix carefully. Fill the molds, 300 each g. Bake at 165¡C for 40 minutes. Soak them immediately in the orange syrup.

Gianduja ganache

• 70 g dark chocolate Selection 70% Van Dender
• 160 g gianduja milk
• 20 g water
• 20 g sugar
• 160 g Stand & Overrun cream, 35% fat
• 30 g glucose syrup
• 20 g grapeseed oil

Put the gianduja and the dark chocolate in a measuring jar. Heat the water, the sugar, the glucose and the cream and pour over the chocolates. Mix well with the grapeseed oil. Cool down.

Kalamansi crémeux

• 100 g kalamansi purée
• 50 g orange juice
• 0,5 vanilla pod
• 1 clove
• 1 branch of mint
• 1 branch of coriander
• 3,5 g gelatin powder
• 17,5 g water
• 80 g eggs
• 90 g sugar
• 110 g butter 82%

Combine the first six ingredients and bring to a boil, cover with plastic wrap and reserve in the refrigerator overnight.
Hydrate the gelatin powder with the water. Sieve the infusion and bring it to a boil together with the sugar. Add the eggs and bring the solution to 83¡C. Add the gelatin and at 40¡C mix in the soft butter with a hand blender.

Montage

Cut the cakes into 4 or 5 large pieces and build them with the kalamansi crémeux and the ganache gianduja. Decorate the cakes with extra kalamansi crémeux and ganache. Finish with some cress and chocolate decoration.

You will find these other two creations at so good #21

The post The Rock travel cake by Pascal de Deyne appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Today, one of the many safe bets that one can enjoy in Yann Couvreur’s pastry shops in Paris is made with a focus on tradition. Gourmet products such as a chocolate pate sucrée, to which is added a semi-salted butter Breton sablé, the crunchy touch of a pailleté, and a caramel chocolate ganache. This is one of the usual characteristics of the patisserie that has been the strongest in Paris in recent times. Gourmand, full and, above all, freshly prepared proposals. It is in fresh products that one can best appreciate the meaning of exclusive service. We can see this in the article that we dedicate to this chef in so good #21 and from which we now extract this crunchy bite.

Measurements for 10 sablés

Chocolate pâte sucré

• 35 g butter
• 30 g confectioners’ sugar
• 1 u egg yolk
• 60 g flour T55
• 15 g cocoa powder

In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle, mix the butter and sifted confectioners’ sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolk and then the flour and cocoa powder previously sifted. Mix thoroughly, gather to a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and reserve in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Pre-heat the oven to170¼C. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1.5 mm. Cut out 10 disks with the help of an 8-cm-wide ring. Bake in a convection oven for 4 minutes.

Sablé breton

• 50 g semi-salted butter
• 20 g butter
• 20 g confectioners’ sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon of fleur de sel
• 3 g cooked egg yolk, passed through a sieve
• 60 g flour T55/li>
• 12 g potato starch

In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle, mix the butters and sifted confectioners’ sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually and in order mix in the fleur de sel, cooked egg yolk, flour and starch (previously sifted). Gather to a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and reserve in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Pre-heat the oven to 170¼C. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 6 mm. Cut out 10 disks with the help of an 8-cm-wide ring. Cut out the center with a 3.5-cm ring. Place the dough rings into the 8-cm rings and bake for 12 minutes.

Caramélia ganache

• 6 cl cream
• 65 g Caramélia couverture

Bring the cream to a boil and pour over the chocolate in three stages. Mix and allow to cool.

Crispy praliné

• 40 g gianduja
• 20 g pailleté feuilletine
• 1 g fleur de sel

Melt the gianduja, add the pailletŽ feuilletine and fleur de sel. Mix thoroughly. Roll out between two parchment paper sheets to a thickness of 4 mm. Cut out 10 disks with the help of a 3.5-cm ring.

Chocolate décor

• 50 g dark chocolate
• 10 g pailleté feuilletine
• 1 g fleur de sel
• 1 g fine chocolate bits

Mix all the ingredients (except the dark chocolate) to obtain a rough mixture. Temper the dark chocolate and spread on an acetate sheet, sprinkle with the previous mixture and leave to set for 2 minutes. Cut out 8-cm-wide disks. Reserve at room temperature for 30 minutes before peeling off the sheets.

Montage

Place a disk of sablé breton on top of each disk of pâte sucré and insert a disk of crispy praliné into the center. Coat with the Caramélia ganache with the help of a piping bag and finish with the chocolate décor.

You will find at #sogood 21 these other three creations

The post Chocolate and caramel sablés by Yann Couvreur appeared first on so good.. magazine.

 
On April 16 and 17, Paul Saiphet taught at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn the basic concepts of the science behind chocolate and the keys to correctly using this ingredient in pastry.

A small group of students discovered a wide variety of finishes and techniques (tempering, ganaches and mousses) from the Valrhona Pastry chef, in addition to learning the history, origin, sourcing and methods for the production of chocolate.

During the two days of training, Saiphet made molded bonbons, truffles, macarons, plated desserts, petits gâteaux, and others. Among all the creations, we were struck by this sweet Bahia Tart, combining hazelnut with white chocolate and coffee, and of which the very chef shows us his tips below.

Photos: Nitzan Rubin

Bahia Tart

Basic hazelnut sweet shortcrust

• 360 g butter
• 6 g salt
• 270 g confectioner’s sugar
• 90 g hazelnut flour
• 150 g whole eggs
• 180 g all-purpose flour
• 525 g all-purpose flour

Combine the softened butter with the salt, confectioner’s sugar, hazelnut flour, eggs and smaller quantity of flour. Take care not to over-mix. As soon as the mixture is combined, quickly fold in the remaining flour. Roll out the pastry to 3mm thickness and set aside in the refrigerator. Bake in a 60x10cm frame at 150-160°C (302-320°F) until it is an even golden color.

Hazelnut cream

• 411 g butter (softened)
• 411 g confectioner’s sugar
• 411 g hazelnut flour
• 42 g corn starch
• 224 g whole eggs

Cream the butter, taking care not to add too much air, and then add the sifted dry ingredients. Gradually fold in the eggs and mix until just combined.

Hazelnut praliné crémeux

• 125 g whole milk
• 5 g powdered gelation (bloomed)
• 25 g water for gelatin (cold)
• 875 g 50% Almond Hazelnut Praliné
• 438 g whipping cream

Bloom the gelatin in the cold water for 5 minutes. Heat the milk and add the bloomed gelatin. Pour a little of this mixture onto the 50% Almond Hazelnut Praliné. Initially, it will split. Emulsify by gradually adding the remaining milk and then the cold cream to obtain a very elastic texture with a glossy appearance, signifying the emulsion process is underway. Blend to perfect the emulsion, taking care not to incorporate any air. Pour the crémeux into a shallow container and set aside in the refrigerator.

Whipped Opalys coffee ganache

• 85 g Arabica coffee beans
• 460 g whipping cream
• 50 g glucose syrup
• 50 g invert sugar
• 5 g instant coffee
• 315 g white chocolate Opalys 33% cocoa
• 695 g whipping cream (chilled)

Roast the coffee beans at 160°C (320°F) for 3 minutes. Take the first quantity of cream and heat until warm. Add the coffee beans and infuse, covering the pan with saran wrap. Strain and check the weight of the cream and top up if necessary. Combine this cream with the invert sugar and glucose and bring to a boil. Add the instant coffee and then slowly pour the hot liquid onto the Opalys 33% chocolate and stir in the center to create an elastic texture with a glossy appearance, signifying the emulsion process is underway. Blend to perfect the emulsion. Add the chilled whipping cream and blend again. Set aside in the refrigerator and leave to set overnight if possible.

Sweet and salted candied hazelnuts

• 125 g sugar
• 50 g water
• 250 g roasted hazelnuts
• 8 g fleur de sel

Roast and peel the hazelnuts. Cook the sugar and water to 115°C (239°F). Add the hazelnuts and salt to the cooked sugar. Candy the nuts and leave to cool on a baking sheet.

Assembly and Finishing

When the Basic Hazelnut Sweet Shortcrust has cooled, remove the frame and use a piping bag with a 10mm nozzle to pipe around 700g of Hazelnut Cream in balls onto the tart. Bake at 180°C (356°F). When cool, unmold and use a 10mm nozzle to pipe around 700g of Praliné Crémeux in droplets on the tart. Whip the Whipped Opalys Coffee Ganache and use a St. Honoré nozzle to pipe around 400g per strip. Blast freeze. Decorate the tart with the chocolate decorations and a few Candied Hazelnuts.

The post Bahia hazelnut tart with white chocolate and coffee whipped ganache by Paul Saiphet appeared first on so good.. magazine.

The Pastry chef of the three starred Lasarte, Xavi Donnay, combines two of his main passions. One is the art of the plated dessert, transient and suggestive, often incorporated into a gastronomic menu that equally shares creativity, innovation, sensitivity, intensity and a taste of homeland. The other of his passions has more to do with the trade of a pastry shop’s owner, with chocolaterie and traditional pastry creations. In this case, he worries about launching them in an especially mini format as petit fours at the end of the menu. For Xavi Donnay the mini format is in fashion, it is seen more and more, and it is also going to be more demanded by the consumer not only in a gastronomic restaurant -where it is also the last flavor which is recorded into the clients’ minds before leaving-, but also in other places and ahead of individual or family formats.

Besides the white chocolate roche, other varieties served in the restaurant are made of dark chocolate with different textures and also of milk chocolate with caramel and soy.

White chocolate mousse

• 250 g milk
• 500 g semi-whipped cream
• 465 g white chocolate
• 4 u gelatin sheets

Heat the milk and add the gelatin sheets, previously hydrated. Strain and pour over the non-melted white chocolate. Emulsify. When the mixture is at 28¼C, gently fold in the cream and use immediately. Transfer the mousse to a piping bag and pipe into ‘micro-stone’ molds. Deep freeze, unmold and dip into a tempered mixture of chocolate and almond. Allow to drain and leave to crystallize on a silicone mat. Reserve in the refrigerator.

White crémeux

Créme anglaise

• 250 g milk
• 250 g cream
• 100 g egg yolks
• 50 g sugar

Make a conventional créme anglaise and scale the needed amount for the preparation of the crémeux.

Crémeux

• 250 g crème anglaise
• 2 u gelatin sheets
• 135 g white chocolate, 40% cocoa

Whisk the previously hydrated and drained gelatin into the créme anglaise. Gradually pour the cream over the chocolate and emulsify with the help of a handheld blender. Pipe into round molds to make the bases.

Passion fruit cream

• 360 g sugar
• 150 g passion fruit juice
• 90 g lime juice
• 338 g eggs
• 525 g butter
• 3 u gelatin sheets

Mix the sugar, eggs and juices and heat until just below the boiling point. Remove from the heat and add the gelatin, previously hydrated in ice water and drained. Allow to cool until the temperature of the cream is between 40 and 45¼C and emulsify with the butter by using a handheld blender for 5 minutes. Strain and reserve in the refrigerator. Mold.

White coating

• 350 g white chocolate
• 200 g Inspiration passion fruit couverture
• 25 g sunflower oil
• 125 g almond, coarsely crushed

Melt the chocolates in the microwave oven, add the oil and temper to 29¼C. Add the almond bits and use.

Velvet spray

• 700 g white chocolate
• 300 g cocoa butter
• 6 g natural white coloring

Separately melt the chocolate in the microwave oven and the cocoa butter in a pan. Combine both and apply onto the frozen mousse at 40¼C.

Montage

Once the bases have been coated, place a dot of passion fruit cream and lay the velvet-sprayed mousse on top. Finish with chocolate pop rocks tossed in silver powder.

You will find also these three creations in #sogood21

The post White chocolate and passion fruit roche bonbon by Xavi Donnay appeared first on so good.. magazine.

In the Artisanal Chocolates and Confections Shop Stick With Me Sweets in New York, each molded bonbon is well-executed, contains more than one flavor, and maintains a perfect balance between flavors, colors, aromas, and textures.

Susanna Yoon (#sogood18), the head chef and founder, confesses that her biggest inspiration when it comes to creating bonbons is found in customers around the world who visit the store and share their favorite dessert memories.

Her Summer Citrus Elderflower Bonbon, of which we share the recipe below, captivates not only because of its bright and beautiful colors, but also because of its bold and adventurous flavors.

Lemon marmalade

• 122 each lemon peel
• 740 g lemon pulp
• 100 g lemon juice
• 400 g sugar
• 2 u vanilla bean

Blanch peel two times. Add pulp, lemon juice, and 150 gram of sugar. Cook until soft and tender. Add the rest sugar and bring to boil. Blend the mixture to preferred texture. Once cooled, pipe a small dot into the chocolate shell

Lemon elderflower ganache

• 350 g Valrhona Opalys
• 160 g cream
• 50 g inverted sugar
• 108 g fresh squeezed lemon
• 20 g fresh squeezed grapefruit
• 38 g St-Germain elderflower liqueur
• 1/2 u lemon zest

Reduce 108 grams of fresh lemon juice to 50 grams. Reduce 20 grams of fresh grape fruit juice to 8 grams. Put cream, inverted sugar, reduced lemon juice and reduced grapefruit juice into one pot. Warm up the mixture and pour over the melted chocolate. Zest 1/2 fresh lemon into the mixture. Add in Elderflower Liqueur. Blend into an emulsion. Add salt to taste. Pipe the ganache at 32°C on top of the marmalade.

Discover these other creations by Susanna Yoon in #sogood18

The post Summer citrus elderflower chocolate bonbon by Susanna Yoon appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Tomato, black truffle, Matcha green tea and Goat cheese are the stars of the creations that the Hungarian Attila Meinhart brings to so good #21 from his arena, the majestic Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace in Budapest. This chef of pastry descent, whose calling had already begun at the young age of 14, has traveled all over the world on board a major cruise line, has visited ports as distinguished as a Michelin-starred restaurant in London and has even run his own pastry shop in Switzerland. However, for his taste, it is important to have a good technical base of French pastry, and to combine it with the influences and ideas of each country.

In his case, nothing is richer than the Austro-Hungarian pastry culture itself, and which he himself proposes to update. But in addition to the necessary updating of symbolic desserts such as Apple Strudel, Dodo’s Cake or Sacher Tort, his style is nourished by flavors and ingredients more typically culinary. His proposals are less common in the sweet territory and have been reduced to the maximum when it comes to sugar content. The purpose is to refine the palette of flavors, and to leave the greatest prominence to each ingredient, thus, offering the diner a new experience and one that is more similar to that found on the savory side of cuisine.

Attila Meinhart himself presents this fourth creation from his inclusion in the magazine:

At this plated dessert I used winter flavors. I know that nowadays the fruits are available in each and every season, but they have the best taste when they are in season. It is important to have the right balance on the plate and to have the perfect combinations. It is important to add a twist with spices
and this beautiful planet is rich with exciting elements. I have a long ongoing collaboration with my photographer and I have learnt a lot when I comes to presentation. It is completely different when I look at a dessert through a camera lens. You will realize certain details that you probably don’t see from another angle.

Plated dessert photos: Antonio Fekete – Designfood
Ceramic. ERROR N’ MORE by Adam Sanzo

Goat cheese parfait

• 500 g cream
• 30 g glucose
• 400 g goat cheese
• 100 g Opalys Valrhona
• 90 g egg whites
• 75 g sugar
• 230 g semi whipped cream

Heat cream and glucose and add cheese and blend it well. Heat it to 90C and pour over the chocolate and emulsify. Make a swiss meringue with egg whites and sugar and mix with the base. Fold into the cream.

Pecan micro biscuit

• 126 g ground toasted pecan nuts
• 252 g egg whites
• 168 g egg yolks
• 70 g sugar
• 38 g flour

Blend all ingredients until smooth and strain into an ISI whipper. Charge with 2 N2O chargers and refrigerate for 2-3 hours. Make a few holes on the bottom of a plastic cup and fill each cup one third full. Microwave for 40seconds and flip cups up side down. Tear biscuit and dry it in Excalibur at 70C for 1 hour.

Pecan crumble

• 100 g butter
• 100 g demarara sugar
• 100 g flour
• 100 g ground pecan

Mix all ingredients till crumble and bake it . Cool after baking and blitz to refine.

Compressed baby pear

• 300 g sugar
• 800 g water
• 10 g citric acid
• 5 g sancho pepper

Peel and cut baby pear and place in a vacuum bag. Boil all ingredients and pour over the pear and vacuum. Let it cool and place in the fridge.

Chestnut cremeux

• 190 g cream
• 190 g milk
• 25 g sugar
• 90 g egg yolks
• 8 g gelatine leaves
• 200 g Bahibe Valrhona
• 200 g chestnut pure
• 80 g chestnut paste

Hydrate gelatine in ice water. Cook cream, milk, sugar and yolks as anglaise and add hydrated gelatine. Pour over the chocolate and emulsify. Add chestnuts and blend it. Let it set in the fridge.

Pecan nougatine

• 1000 g icing sugar
• 120 g chopped pecan nuts

Make a dry caramel and add pecan nuts and pour on a silpat. Let it cool. Blitz and sieve a thin layer on a silpat. Place it in the oven at 180C and melt it. After cooling store in a airtight container.

Pear chips

• 125 g tapioca
• 120 g water
• 170 g pear pure
• 60 g coocked tapioca

Cook tapioca with water and let it rest. Strain it. Blend pure and cooked tapioca and spread on a silpat. Dry it in the oven at 90C

Goats milk foam

• 500 g goats milk
• 300 g Sucro SOSA

Warm milk and Sucro. Blend it to make a foam.

You will find also these creations in #sogood21

The post Goat cheese parfait plated dessert with pear, chestnut and pecan by Attila Meinhart appeared first on so good.. magazine.

One of the latest chefs to have taught a course at L’École Valrhona Brooklyn has been Derek Poirier. Under the title “Panning and Chocolate Treats”, the Valrhona Pastry Chef North America has given guidelines to develop a business from an extensive menu of snackable confections.

In three days, a small group of students has had the opportunity, among other things, to master the basic techniques of panning using a stand mixer attachment and a panning machine, to learn new methods to create bite sized snacks such as dragées, bars, marshmallows, candies and other creations with a variety of fillings, and to apply various finishes, glazes, and decorations.

Additionally, the Canadian chef has explained the science behind chocolate panning and engrossing and has prepared simple recipes that seduce the consumer like this Orelys Fraise Tonka dragée.

Photos: Nitzan Rubin

Orelys Fraise Tonka

Pâte de fruits fraise tonka

• 420 g strawberry purée
• 38 g sugar
• 9 g yellow pectin
• 338 g sugar
• 21 g glucose syrup
• 6 g citric acid solution
• 4 g tonka bean

Heat the purée and the grated tonka bean together at 40°C (104°F).
While stirring, add the small amount of sugar mixed with the pectin. Bring to a boil and add the rest of the sugar.
Bring once again to a boil and add the glucose.
Cook at 72/74 Brix using a refractometer or at 105°C (221°F) with a thermometer.
Once cooked add the citric acid solution (50% water) and pour over immediately in a 34x34cmx4mm frame.

Engrossing process with Orelys blond chocolate

Engrossing is the process of building the chocolate around the center. In this case we will use Orelys blond chocolate (35%).

Run the center at a medium speed, around 45-50% on a Selmi Comfit, the product should run nicely and not fall.

In order to have a longer shelf life nuts, cover the center with 2 thin layers of 0.25% gum arabic solution (1arabic gum: 2 cold water). If the centers are candied fruits, or paté de fruits, separate them with dextrose before starting the engrossing process.

• Add a little quantity of untempered chocolate at the beginning (40-45°C[104-113°F]). To ensure the centers do not stick together, add them slowly from the beginning.
• The air flow should be adapted to the product and the chocolate.

1) 7-12°C (45-54°F) for white chocolate and milk chocolate.

2) 9-15°C (48-59°F) for dark chocolate.

• Once the desired ratio is reached, set the air flow to 4°C (39°F) and slowly warm the panner with a heat gun in order to melt the chocolate on the side. This technique must be done carefully with the white or blond chocolate.
• Set the rotation to 70-90% in order to smooth the product, heat if necessary to smooth the product. Make sure you do not over melt the product.
• Once polished, slow the speed to around 50% with cool air at 10°C (50°F) and pan until the center are cold.
• Leave to set for at least 3 hours before finishing.

If panning is done with sugar syrup, the syrup is added onto the centers with an air flow at 60-70°C (140-158°F) or on the chocolate with a cold syrup and no air flow.

For a powder finish effect, warm up a little bit of the product (possible to do this at the end of polishing when the panned items are still soft) and add the powder at a medium rotation.

Polishing/glazing (4 options)

1

• 57 g maltodextrin
• 35 g water
• 8g VALRHONA COCOA BUTTER

2

• 50 g Arabic gum
• 50 g lukewarm water

3

• Capol 254 N (Glaze)

4

• Centerchem MasterCoat POTT 154 A

The post Blond chocolate Orelys, Fraise Tonka dragées by Derek Poirier appeared first on so good.. magazine.

For the past ten years, Carrie Lewis has been working as a pastry chef at Chez Panisse (Berkeley, California), a French inspired bistro style restaurant where the diner can try vegetables right out of the garden and fish straight from the sea. In this emblematic place, the seasonal, local, and organic products are the stars of the menu.

In the sweet station, “the desserts on each menu are very different and they change every day,” explains Lewis. We share  the recipe of their Rhubarb Galette below. The particularity of this piece is the dough, which “we make every day at the restaurant. We use it for tarts, both savory and sweet, of every shape and size. Jacques Pepin taught us how to make it-he calls it his Crunch Tart dough. The technique used to cut the butter into the flour is the key to good results with this recipe. “

Rhubarb Galette

For dough

Start by adding just a third the butter; Combine the flour, sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. Cut the butter with a pastry blender mixing until the sough resembles coarse cornmeal.( Butter disperse throughout the flour in tiny pieces makes the dough tender.) cut the remaining butter just until the biggest pieces of butter are the size of large peas.

Dribble 7 tablespoons (210ml) of ice cold water into the flour mixture in several stages, tossing and mixing between your fingers mix until it starts to pull together.

• • 256 g unbleached all- purpose flour
  • 5 g granulated sugar
  • 2 g salt
  • 440 g unsalted butter, chilled and cut in small pieces.
  • 105 ml ice cold water

• ---

  For each galette

  • 600 g ounces of rhubarb
  • ½ to ¾ cups sugar
  • Frangipane on bottom egg yolks
  • ½ T to 1 T moon dust on frangipane
  • ¼ of an orange, zest and juice

  Toss a small amount of sugar with the rhubarb and build tart. Don’t let the rhubarb sit with the sugar on for any amount of time, it will begin to juice immediately. Make sure the red sides of the rhubarb is facing up.
  After about 20 minutes in the oven, taste and sprinkle the remaining sugar on the fruit, pressing down on any dark pieces so that they are under the juice. If necessary, move the rhubarb around a bit to fill in any gaps.

  ---

  Chez Panisse ice cream

  • 1 ½ c half & half
  • 1 c sugar
  • 9 yolks
  • 3 c cream

  Heat half & half, sugar plus any other flavorings as instructed below. Whisk yolks in a separate bowl. When you’ve reached the desired taste, temper yolks into hot half & half. Stirring constantly, cook the mixture until custard starts to form on the bottom. Immediately strain into cream to stop cooking. Taste base and adjust. Cool completely before freezing.

  Variations

  The basics recipes with substitutions  add ingredients before freezing:

• Crème Fraîche: Substitute crème fraîche for cream, stir in just before freezing.
• Mascarpone: Substitute mascarpone for cream, stir in just before freezing.
• Vanilla: Steep 3 beans, split and scraped, into half & half and sugar. Allow to steep, until flavor comes through.

The post Chez Panisse’s Rhubarb Galette by Carrie Lewis appeared first on so good.. magazine.

This éclair is a specialty with infinite possibilities in terms of decoration and presentation. You only have to take a look at Olivier Fernández’s thematic éclairs, which we already talked about in #sogood10 and that have been popularized year after year. To achieve its perfected format, the pastry chef cooks them in an ingenious stainless steel mold, fitted with a lid. From there, it is time for creativity and imagination.

Coinciding with the 30th anniversary of the death of Salvador Dalí, we once again share the Mae West recipe, included in the 2015 collection of éclairs of the director of the EPGB. A Dalinian sofa in the shape of lips, with mascarpone cream and red glaze, which has not lost its validity over time.
 

Mae West Red Lips éclair

Mascarpone cream

• 320 g sugar
• 280 g yolks
• 12 g gelatin sheets
• 900 g cream
• 900 g mascarpone

Whip the sugar and the yolks and mix with the mascarpone. Add the previously soaked and drained gelatin sheets, and finally add the semi-matured cream.
Let it rest and curdle. Fill a sleeve and fill the éclair.

Red glaze

• 400 g cream
• 100 g glucose 44º
• 300 g cold gelatin
• 12 g gelatin sheets
• 800 g white couverture
• c/s food coloring in the right color

Heat cream, glucose, and cold gelatin up to 90ºC. Add the hydrated gelatin sheets and mix with the melted couverture. Emulsify. Color to taste. Apply on the surface of the éclair.

Choux Pastry Dough

• 500 g water
• 500 g milk
• 440 g butter
• 12 g salt
• 20 g inverted sugar
• 600 g flour
• 12 eggs

Mix and heat the milk with the water, add the inverted sugar, butter, and salt and bring everything to 100ºC. Add the previously sieved flour. Mix energetically to achieve a homogeneous mixture. Put it in the machine until it cools, little by little add the eggs until the dough allows and we get a smooth and shiny texture.
Once ready, arrange the dough on baking paper, covering the top with another paper. Roll with a rolling pin but placing a stop on both sides with two 1 cm high slats. This way, we will obtain a dough of equal thickness in all its surface. Put in the freezer for 12 hours to let it properly rest.
Remove the paper and cut and mold.
Cook at 230ºC for six minutes and lower the oven temperature to 180ºC for 18 more minutes.

The 2015 collection of éclairs by Olivier Fernández

The post Red Lips Éclair with mascarpone cream by Olivier Fernández appeared first on so good.. magazine.

L’École Valrhona is one of the most outstanding training centers in France, with a cast of young professionals who hoard great talent and a lot of enthusiasm. In the 2015 edition, we saw how one of its trainers obtained the title of MOF, Christophe Renou. In the latest edition, the one who has gained this recognition has been David Briand. Forged for years in Oriol Balaguer’s demanding workshop and trainer for Valrhona since 2014, Briand stands out for his non-conformist and competitive spirit. A spirit that is reflected both in his great work at the MOF final.

“My showcase revolved around the butterfly effect or the impact of man on nature. From there I would choose either this individual piece or my artistic sugar piece, which represents the past, the harmony of an ecosystem that I hope will last”. We share the recipe for L’Hésperie, an individual piece that is sugar and gluten free. To make it, he chose ingredients such as maltitol (a polyol chemically close to sucrose), buckwheat, and rice flour (which has a neutral taste and is gluten-free). At so good #21 we also interviewed him.

“My showcase revolved around the butterfly effect or the impact of man on nature. From there I would choose either this individual piece or my artistic sugar piece, which represents the past, the harmony of an ecosystem that I hope will last”

L’Hespérie

Buckwheat crisp

• 120 g maltitol *
• 80 g salted Guérande butter
• 40 g buckwheat flour *
• 40 g rice flour *
• 50 g egg whites

Melt the butter, mix the flour and egg whites with the maltitol. Spread between two sheets of parchment. Freeze. Bake for eight minutes at 180ºC.

Reconstituted buckwheat crisp

• 330 g buckwheat crisp
• 110 g Kasha grains
• 110 g cocoa butter
• 55 g dry butter 84%
• 2 g orange peel

Cook the buckwheat crisp, lightly beat the Kasha grains, mix with cocoa butter, and melted butter. Add the orange peel. 30 g for petit gâteau.

Passion fruit orange gelée

• 2 g NH pectin
• 25 g maltitol *
• 1 g gelatin powder
• 5 g water of hydration
• 40 g fresh orange juice
• 75 g fresh passion fruit juice

Mix the pectin with a small part of maltitol. Heat the orange juice, the passion fruit juice and the maltitol at 40ºC, add the pectin. Bring to a boil. Add the gelatin. Set aside.

Spray glaze

• 225 g mineral water
• 270 g maltitol *
• 4,5 g NH pectin
• 1 g citric acid

Mix the pectin with a small part of maltitol. Heat the water and maltitol to 40 ° C, add the pectin. Bring to a boil. Add the citric acid. Set aside.

Viennese coffee cake

• 25 g yolks
• 70 g whole eggs
• 55 g maltitol *
• 45 g egg whites
• 15 g maltitol *
• 35 g rice flour *
• 2,5 g pure arabica soluble coffee

Beat the yolks, eggs and the first part of maltitol. Beat the egg whites in parallel with the soluble coffee and add the maltitol little by little. Sift the rice flour. Combine the two mixtures gently and add the rice flour. Spread on a plate and cook at 200ºC.

Coffee mounted on ganache

• 75 g cream 35% d’Isigny AOP
• 95 g grains of pure Arabica coffee from Mexico
• 45 g espresso coffee
• 2 g pure soluble arabica coffee
• 40 g maltitol *
• 25 g cocoa butter
• 2 g gelatin powder
• 10 g water of hydration
• 190 g cream 35% d’Isigny AOP

Infuse the cream with the coffee bean. Strain. Add espresso coffee, soluble coffee and maltitol. Add the gelatin, emulsify on the cocoa butter. Set aside.

Orange compote

• 130 g orange Navelina
• 12 g dry butter 84%
• 65 g maltitol *
• 95 g fresh passion fruit juice
• 2 g potato starch

Blanch the oranges for approximately 30 minutes. Cut into pieces and brown in butter. Add the maltitol and let it reduce. Dissolve the potato starch in a portion of the passion juice. Slowly add the passion fruit juice and let it reduce. Finish with the juice and starch mixture. Boil. Mix and set aside.

Montage

Make the buckwheat crisp, the passion fruit gel, the coffee mounted on ganache, the sponge cake and the orange compote. Set aside.

Make the reconstituted buckwheat and then place 30 g in a circle of 7.5 cm in diameter, using a small spatula and a second circle of 6 cm in diameter, lightly press the crisp to create an edge. Set aside.

Spread the passion gel in a silicone cut with the desired pattern and freeze.

Spread the orange compote over the coffee cake and then roll it up. Set aside.

Cut pieces of roll 1.5 cm wide and spread 6 g of orange compote. Freeze.

Beat the coffee mounted on ganache, place a circle of 6 cm in diameter in the passion fruit gel, place 20 g of ganache and finish with the these cookie disks. Freeze.

Unmold and then, using a spray gun, spray a light veil on the unmolded discs. Place inside the Reconstituted buckwheat crisp.

* Maltitol is a polyalcohol (sugar alcohol) that is chemically similar to sucrose.

* Buckwheat. Despite its common name of black wheat, it is not a species of the genus Triticum (genus that groups wheat varieties), not even a grass. Therefore, it is devoid of gluten.

* Rice flour is the gluten-free flour which is used the most to replace wheat flour because it has a neutral flavor.

The post Passion fruit, orange and coffee L’Hespérie gateau that is gluten and sugar free, by MOF David Briand appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Eunji Lee, originally from Busan (South Korea) is the young pastry chef in New York’s two Michelin star restaurant, Jungsik, which offers contemporary Korean cuisine.

When it comes to making new desserts, Lee confesses that she likes to use seasonal fruit and once she decides the main ingredients, she starts thinking about all the supporting elements which could match really well. His great aspiration is to make the diners at Jungsik happy with desserts like this fig tart.

Tart

• 282 g butter
• 180 g icing sugar
• 2 g salt
• 57 g almond powder
• 110 g egg
• 465 g AP flour

Mix butter, icing sugar, vanilla, salt in kitchenaid with paddle. Add almond powder then eggs little by little then ap flour (don’t too much mix). 200g / tray, spread with rolling pin between parchement papers 1,5~1,8mm. Keep in the freezer few minutes and punch with 9cm cercle, and pick with pincet or fork to make small holes. Wrap the tray and keep in the refrigerator. Foncage with 6cm cercle (must rest minimum one night in the freezer!)

Crème d’amande

• 50 g butter
• 50 g sugar
• 50 g eggs
• 50 g almond power
• 6 g rhum

Make butter smooth (pommade) with paddle, kitcheaid. Add sugar, mix. Add eggs little by little with rhum. Add almond powder in the end. Scrap the mixture to

*Baking
Put 7g of crème d’amande in the shell. Then 2~3 pcs of fig slices. Convection oven 167c 5min, rotate, 4min

Honey cream

• 113 g milk
• 12 g cream 36%
• ¼ pc vanilla
• 22 g egg yolk
• 12 g sugar
• 7 g cornstarch
• 7 g pastry flour
• 14 g masse gelatin
• 12 g butter
• 8 g mascarpone
• 38 g honey

Boil milk, cream, vanilla. Whisk egg yolk, sugar at first and add cornstarch, pastry flour. Mix with the liquid strained and egg yolk mixture. Make crème patissiere. Add gelatin, whisk, then add butter, mascarpone, mix with hand blender. Put in the blast chiller to cool down and keep in the refrigerator. Add Honey and mix it.

Huckleberry juice

• 4500 g huckleberry
• 300 g sugar

Mix together in hotel pan, wrap it well. Bake in the convection oven for 4hours 90c. Strain

Huckleberry jam

• 1000 g huckleberry
• 130 g water
• 170 g sugar
• 80 g glucose atomise
• 5 g pectine

Cook water with sugar to 115c. Add fresh huckleberry and stir it well. When it starts to heat put glucose, pectine mixture and cook to 104c

Compote fig

• 500 g black mission fig
  

• 20 g butter
• 25 g lavender honey
• ½ pc Vanilla Madagascar

Melt the butter on a pan, when it starts to boil, put figs and coat every figs. with butter by spoon. Put the lavender honey and vanilla beans. Cook for a while when they become soft. Mix with hand blender

Grape-Huckleberry sorbet

• 190 g huckleberry
• 270 g seedless black grape
• 60 g sugar
• 125 g water
• Trimoline
• 3 g sugar
• 2 g stabilizer

Mix huckleberry and grape with sugar and let them outside for 1 day. Heat water and trimoline. Add sugar and stabilizer mixture, make it boil. Keep in the refrigerator for 1 day. Mix fruits with the sorbet base with hand blender (maximum). Strain, store. And Spin

Montage

On the plate, put the tart and pipe honey cream.
Put fig compote in the middle then huckleberry jam around of compot.
Put 3 slices of black mission fig.
Scoop 1 quenelle of grape-huckleberry sorbet.
Table side : lavender honey on the tart & huckleberry juice.

The post Jungsik’s Fig tart by Eunji Lee appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Patrice Ibarboure is one of the youngest chefs to achieve the MOF title.

After two years in Fauchon, he went through prestigious kitchens, being in charge of the sweet station with Pierre Gagnaire in Paris or Daniel Boulud in New York. In 2013, he then joined his brother Xabi, a chef, to direct the gastronomic proposal of the restaurant Les Frères Ibarboure, with one Michelin star and located in Bidart, a French town very close to the border of Spain. The designation of Patrice as MOF shows that the trade has been open to restaurant confectioners.

In so good # 21, we interviewed this professional and entered into the concerns that have led him to struggle to get this title. We also share the recipe for this exotic mojito. “I wanted to show this creation in So Good because it is a restaurant dessert that represents me very well. I was looking for a preparation that was light in terms of flavors and visually delicate,” says Ibarboure.

Mango mousse

• 170 g mango puree
• 3 g gelatin sheets
• 25 g brown sugar
• 70 g whipped cream

Heat half the mango puree with the brown sugar until it simmers. Add the gelatin and pour over the other half of the cold puree. Cool to 30 or 35 °. Add the whipped cream. Extend between two rulers 0.5 cm thick.

Mojito sorbet

• 140 g water
• 55 g brown sugar
• 20 g mint leaves
• 140 g Perrier
• 35 g black rum
• 75 g lime juice
• 55 g egg whites
• 3,5 g stabilizer
• 75 g atomized glucose
• 25 g powdered milk

Mix the powders together. Boil the water and add the mint. Infuse for 10 minutes. Strain. Add the powders and let boil. Cool, add the Perrier, rum, lime juice, and finish with the egg whites. Mix, set aside, and put through ice cream maker.

Mango Sauce

• 100 g mango puree
• 10 g glucose

Reduce to low heat.

Coconut mousse

• 240 g coconut pulp
• 7 g gelatin
• 40 g egg whites
• 45 g sugar
• 180 g cream
• 15 g coconut paste

Soak the gelatin. Make an Italian meringue with egg whites and sugar. Assemble the cream, mix the pulp and the coconut paste, add the melted gelatin in the microwave.
Mix with the Italian meringue and then the whipped cream. Mold in 2 cm half spheres.

lime glaze

• 60 g neutral gelatin
• 10 g water
• 1 thin lime peel
• 6 g lime juice
• q/s green coloring

Boil everything, mix and keep cool.

Mounted Vanilla Ganache

• 90 g Ivoire white chocolate
• 3 g gelatin
• 400 g cream
• 1 vanilla pod
• 1,5 g vanilla extract

Soak the gelatin, infuse the vanilla pods and the vanilla extract in hot cream for 15 minutes.
Strain, add the gelatin, and pour over the chocolate. Mix and set aside.

The post Exotic mango, coconut, passion fruit and crystallized mint leaves mojito by Patrice Ibarboure appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Nicolas Houchet, deputy head of pâtisserie at Le Cordon Bleu London, is aware that a gesture can make a difference in pastry. A message that he does not hesitate to convey to the students of the prestigious school.

In the face of the great success that modern pastry awakens in the Anglo-Saxon public, the French chef recommends his students to have perseverance, commitment, and seriousness to be able to transform a pastry classic into an artisan piece with a single twist in the flavors or in the presentation.

His great trimming and decorating abilities can be seen in Douceur du Verger, an impeccable piece of which we share the recipe below.

Doucer du verger

Apricot and rosemary compote

• 20 g caster sugar
• 20 g fresh rosemary
• 200 g apricots
• 10 g potato starch
• 10 g caster sugar
• 5 g pectin NH
• 400 g apricot purée
• 2 vanilla pods, seeds scraped
• 8 g leaf gelatine

Make a light syrup with the sugar, rosemary and 400 ml water. Poach the apricots in the syrup until they are tender.
In a bowl, mix the potato starch, sugar and pectin with the apricot purée and vanilla and bring to the boil. Stir in the gelatine then strain the mixture.
Fold through the poached apricots then pour the mixture into a 16 cm insert mould. Place in the freezer to set.

Dulcey mousse

• 95 g milk
• 8 g leaf gelatine
• 175 g Valrhona Dulcey chocolate
• 5 g cocoa butter
• 195 g whipping cream, lightly whipped

In a pan, bring the milk to the boil, take off the heat then add the gelatine and stir through. Emulsify with the melted Dulcey chocolate and cocoa butter.
Cool the emulsion to 30°C then fold in the whipped cream.

Apricot and vanilla grass (bison grass) cremeux

• 200 g apricot purée
• 2 blades vanilla grass
• 40 g eggs yolks
• 20 g caster sugar
• 5 g leaf gelatine
• 60 g butter, softened

In a pan on low heat, add the apricot purée and vanilla grass. Bring to the boil then leave to infuse.
Blanch the egg yolks and sugar then temper with the infused purée.
Strain the mixture then return to the pan. Cook to 82°C then stir in the gelatine.
Gradually add in the butter to emulsify, then place into an 18 cm insert mould. Freeze.

Apricot gel

• 130 g apricot purée
• 20 g lemon juice
• 30 g caster sugar
• 3 g leaf gelatine

In a pan, bring the apricot purée, lemon juice and sugar to the boil. Remove from the heat and stir through the gelatine. Cool slightly, then pour on top of the frozen apricot and vanilla grass cremeux in the mould.

Pistachio sponge

• 130 g marzipan 66%
• 70 g eggs
• 40 g pistachio paste
• 10 g cornflour
• 40 g butter, melted
• 40 g egg whites
• 5 g caster sugar

Preheat the oven to 170°C.
Blitz the marzipan, eggs, pistachio paste and cornflour in a food processor until smooth. With the motor running, gradually pour in the melted butter until well combined, then transfer to a large bowl.
In a freestanding mixer, make a French meringue with the egg whites.
Carefully fold the meringue into the pistachio mixture. Spread the mixture on a silicone mat to 5 mm thick, then bake for 10 – 12 minutes and leave to cool.
Once cooled, cut out a 16 cm round disc and place on top of the semi-set apricot gel and apricot and vanilla grass cremeux insert

Decoration and assembly

• velvet orange chocolate spray
• chocolate cerclage and criss-cross

Fill a 20 cm entremets ring with 400 g Dulcey mousse.
Push in the frozen insert and smooth and level the top with a spatula. Place in the freezer to harden.
Once frozen, unmould and spray the frozen entremets with orange velvet spray. Finish with the apricot and rosemary compote and chocolate cerclages.

You will find at so good #22 these two creations

The post Doucer du Verger with Apricot, Rosemary, Pistachio and Dulcey Entremets by Nicolas Houchet appeared first on so good.. magazine.

With the philosophy of less is more, Pieter de Volder, one of the leading chefs of so good # 22, opened his own establishment in Leuven (Belgium) in 2015 alongside chocolate maker David van Acker.

In this shop there is no shortage of Mediterranean flavors inspired directly by his time in Barcelona when he worked in Bubó under the orders of Carles Mampel. Clean and simple creations on the outside but very powerful in terms of flavor on the inside, in which the best products are used, playing with different textures and light mousses. A very modern style that is reflected in his creation, Vermouth Hour, whose recipe we reproduce below.

Photography by Debic

Hora del vermut

Ganache

• 249 g Debic cream Stand & Overrun 35%
• 70 g milk
• 1 vanilla pod
• 30 g gelatin mass (5 g gelatin powder + 25 g water)
• 154 g dark chocolate 64%
• 75 g milk chocolate 35%

Cook the cream, milk and vanilla pod and strain over the chocolates.
Mix to a smooth emulsion by using a hand blender.
Add the melted gelatin mass and mix well.

Granité

• 250 g water
• 80 g sugar
• 30 g orange juice
• 55 g red vermut
• 32 g juice of bergamot
• 1 star anise

Heat all ingredients and leave it overnight. Strain and freeze.

Chocolate crumble

• 100 g Debic Traditional butter
• 100 g sugar
• 100 g grilled almond powder
• 75 g flour
• 15 g cocoa powder
• 1 zest of orange
• 1,2 g fleur de sel

Knead all ingredients until rough crumbles.
Portion out on a baking tray coverd with baking paper.
Bake at 170°C during 16 minutes an stir during baking.

Ice cream

• 1 l milk
• 240 g egg yolk
• 300 g sugar
• 2 vanilla pods
• 500 g Debic cream Stand & Overrun 35%

Cook the milk with the vanilla pods, the sugar and the egg yolks to 83° C (anglaise).
Leave to mature for 24 hours.
Add the liquid cream.
Turbinate.

Orange jelly

• 350 g orange juice
• 80 g lime juice
• 36 g gelatine mass (6 g gelatin powder + 30 g water)
• 4 g agar

Heat the juices to 40°C and mix with the agar.
Cook for three minutes.
Add the gelatin mass and mix well.
Pour on a tray and leave it to gel.
Cut in to small cubes.

Assembly

Pipe twoo lines of whipped ganache on a plate.
Put a small layer of crumble in the middle.
Place a scoop of vanilla ice on the crumble
Decorate with the shaved granite, the orange jelly and white chocolate plates.
Finish with died raspberry powder.

Check out these two recipes by Pieter de Volder in sogood #22

The post Hora del vermut with granité, chocolate crumble, ice cream, and orange jelly by Pieter de Volder appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Although it is obvious, a lemon ice cream is not the same as a frozen lemon. Newer generations may not know that the latter was the true king of desserts in Spain back in the 1980s. If we put aside nostalgia, that frozen lemon was, to put it generously, a not very refined dessert. The skin of the fruit was simply frozen and was filled with a kind of unbreakable sorbet for a normal spoon.

In Dulcypas, our Spanish pastry magazine, Jose Romero, professor at the School of Pastry of Barcelona (EPGB), rescues that mythical dessert from memory to renew it and turn it into a true pastry delicacy. In the new frozen lemon, the skin is confit and filled with a well-balanced ice cream. And it is presented in attractive segments topped by a candied lemon nugget.

Continuing our journey among lemons, we find an ingenious travel dessert. It is indeed for traveling as it is presented packed in a box. Inside, the recipient will find the three elements of a classic Lemon Pie in three nice bags: the cookie, the cream and the meringue. The set also includes a cardboard tray and two wooden spoons for tasting.

Travel lemon pie

Lemon cream

• 2 eggs
• 100 g sugar
• 100 g organic lemon juice
• 2 jelly sheets
• 130 g room temperature butter

Start by hydrating the gelatin leaves in cold water. Mix the eggs with the sugar. Tempr over heat and add the lemon juice. Cook at 85 ° C. At 50 ° C, incorporate the previously hydrated and drained gelatin. At 40 ° C, add the butter little by little, homogenizing with the mixer. At 30 ° C add one part of Swiss meringue for two parts of lemon cream and add 30% of lemon pulp confit of the lemons for the weight of the lemon cream.

Swiss meringue

• 200 g powdered sugar
• 100 g egg white
• 40 g organic lemon juice
• zest of half a lemon

Heat the egg whites and sugar at 50 ° C. Mount with rods and once half mounted, add the lemon juice and then the lemon zest. Put and let dry in a heat stove or dehydrator at 50ºC for 24 hours. Once dry, flame them with a blowtorch and arrange them in the travel bags.

Hazelnut sablé

• 240 g butter
• 60 g hazelnut flour
• 4 g salt
• 160 g powdered sugar
• 90 g eggs
• 435 g all-purpose flour

Mix the dry ingredients, add the eggs, and slowly add the diced and cold butter. Let stand, laminate into 3 mm and cut into a leaf. Cook at 160ºC for 12 to 15 minutes or until the cookie is golden brown and dry.

Assembly

Remove the ingredients from the bags and assemble the lemon pie, with the cookie in the base, on top of the lemon cream and on top the Swiss meringue peaks.

The post Travel lemon pie by Jose Romero appeared first on so good.. magazine.

In so good #22 we had the opportunity to go inside one of the schools that has best spread the teaching of pastry both in Malaysia and in the countries of its area of influence. We refer to the Academy of Pastry Arts. Angelo Vantoorn is the bread and viennoiserie specialist within its team of professors, one of the subjects taught to the students that the center has throughout Asia and the Middle East.

Coming from Miami (Florida),  some of the highlights of Angelo Vantoorn’s career are his time at Johnson and Wales University and his work for both Michael Mina and the Four Seasons hotels in the United States.

Passion Lotus, Heart of the tropics

“Coming from Miami, which is full of tropical flavors, and living in South Asia which is abundant with beautiful tropical fruit, this viennoiserie just seems natural.  The lotus flower grows from the mud until it emerges above the water and blooms in a variety of beautiful colors. I feel this symbolizes not only my journey but that of any chef. The tart flavors of fresh passion fruit create a contrast to the sweetness of litchi and the richness of the butter. Adding the nougatine gives an extra texture not normally found in viennoiserie. I wanted to create something that felt home to those of us who live in the tropics and exotic to those just exploring the diversity of its flavors for the first time.”

Angelo Vantoorn

Passion fruit lotus

Danish dough

• 1413 g T45 flour
• 28 g salt
• 163 g sugar
• 212 g eggs
• 71 g fresh yeast
• 212 g cold water
• 282 g milk
• 353 g Butter 84%
• 500 g folding butter

Mix all ingredients except 353 g of butter and folding butter for 3 minutes on slow speed. After 2 minutes add 353 g of butter and mix on medium speed 10 minutes until smooth dough has been formed. Remove 800 g of dough and add 8 g of yellow powdered color and mix until fully combined. Take both doughs and leave room temperature for 30 minutes and move to freezer for 1 hour. Remove doughs from freezer and leave at 4c overnight. Next day’s Roll plain dough to 6 mm and place 500 g folding butter in center of dough and lock in butter. Roll to 6mm. Take 500 g of yellow colored dough and place over 2/3 of the plain dough with butter inside. Continue to perform single fold and place at 4ºC for 30 minutes. Remove dough from refrigerator and roll to 6 mm and give one double fold. Place directly into freezer and leave from 1 hour to 24hrs. Remove dough from freezer and thaw at 4ºC. Roll remaining yellow colored dough and cover the top of laminted dough and roll together to 2 mm. Place rolled dough into freezer until frozen. Cut into lotus shape place in mold and proof at cool room temperature 1 hour. Move to proofing box at 26ºC and proof another hour. Push 20 g of marzipan into center of dough and cover with halve sphere of frozen jam on top of marzipan. Bake at 160ºC in convection oven for 20 minutes. Brush with sugar syrup after baking and place on nougatine.

Passion fruit jam

• 600 g frozen passion fruit puree
• 60 g fresh passion fruit pulp
• 297 g raw sugar
• 13 g Gellan Gum
• 1 g salt

Bring passion fruit puree, fresh passion fruit pulp, and half of sugar to a boil. Mix remaining raw sugar and gellan gum and whisk into boiling raspberry. Bring back to a boil and cook for 1 minutes adding salt and lemon zest at the end. Immediate pour into 4 cm silicon half sphere mold and freeze until ready to use.

Litchi marzipan

• 500 g almond powder
• 75 g litchi puree
• 50 g water
• 75 g trimoline
• 240 g sugar

Bring water, sugar and trimoline to a boil place in food processor with remaining ingredients and blend until smooth paste. Spread on silpain and cool down.

Nougatine

• 125 g sugar
• 75 g toasted almond nibs
• 40 g water
• 25 g glucose

Make caramel with water, glucose, and sugar. When light caramel have been achieved stir in almond nibs and pour on silpat and cool down. Blend caramelized almond nibs until fine powder. With sifter sift over lotus shaped stencil and bake at 160c for 6 minutes. Slightly cool nougatine and remove from silpat and while still warm bend to desired shape.

The red fruits version of this Danish dough lotus by Angelo Vantoorn

Discover the creations of other chef instructors of the Academy of Pastry Arts such as Ming Ai Loi and Wei Loon Tan in sogood#22

The post Passion fruit Danish dough Lotus by Angelo Vantoorn appeared first on so good.. magazine.

Javier Guillén has got us accustomed to a very personal pastry, which is inspired by his encounters, his experiences and his memories. This is how he does his annual collections, which he presents through courses taught all over the world. To delve further into that absolute personalization of his work, this Spanish chef, technician of firms such as Valrhona or Sosa Ingredients, designs his own molds to capture, in a more reliable way, the message he wants to launch with each of his new creations.

The result is always surprising: pieces that are simply different, in addition to imaginative, fresh and with a spot of fantasy. As the three creations that he gives us in sogood #22 and which Manica entremet is one of them. The author himself explains it to us next.

Manica

“It is the name of an architecture studio that has designed, in my opinion, the most beautiful and avant-garde sports stadiums in the world. This Manica cake recalls some of the most emblematic buildings that we can admire in places like Shanghai or Las Vegas. The lightness of the cake, with its nuances of vanilla, yogurt and apricot, responds to a trend that is very present today in sweet boutiques around the world.”

Javier Guillén

Dulcey vanilla cream

• 200 g milk
• 300 g egg
• 150 g sugar
• 22 g Gelcrema, hot
• 80 g Dulcey chocolate
• 1 uNorohy vanilla bean

Allow the vanilla to infuse in the milk. Mix all the ingredients except chocolate. Heat to 82ºC while continuously stirring. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Process with a stick blender and reserve in the refrigerator.

Flexi sponge

• 200 g egg whites
• 250 g ground almond
• 200 g cake flour
• 730 g egg whites
• 500 g sugar
• 70 g butter, liquid
• 2 g xanthan

Start by mixing the first egg whites and the almond. Whip the second measurement of egg whites and the sugar until stiff. Combine the with the previous mixture. Mix in the liquid butter. Finally add the flour together with the xanthan. Cast over a 60×40-cm sheet pan and bake at 180ºC.

Mango and apricot confit

• 350 g ripe mango, diced
• 450 g apricot purée
• 40 g sugar
• 8 g yellow pectin
• 2 g gelatin

Cut the mango into irregular dice of a small size. Cook in a 100ºC oven for 20 minutes. Heat the purée and add the sugar, gelatin and finally the pectin. Bring to a boil. Pour over 12-cm-wide and 1-cm-high rings. Reserve in the freezer until needed for the assembly.

Apricot and yogurt mousse

• 160 g apricot purée
• 12 g gelatin
• 340 g natural yogurt, unsweetened
• 400 g Opalys white chocolate
• 610 g cream, whipped to soft peaks

Heat the purée and add the previously hydrated gelatin. Pour over the chocolate and process with a stick blender. Add the yogurt. Once the mixture is at 30ºC, add the semi-whipped cream. Use immediately..

Montage

Once the baked Flexi sponge is cool, spread the Dulcey vanilla cream unevenly so that, once the sponge is cut, parts of sponge and pasts of cream can be seen as shown in the picture.
Cut into 16-cm-wide disks (for the base) and irregular 16-cm strips to line the cake as a finishing.
Make the mousse and pipe up to 2/3 of the ring.
Place the frozen insert. Fill the mold with the remaining mousse up to the top.
Seal with the sponge. Blast freeze, sprinkle with neutral gelatin and garnish as desired.

Discover these two creations by Javier Guilén in sogood#22

The post Manica vanilla, yogurt and apricot entremet by Javier Guillén appeared first on so good.. magazine.

For Jacquy Pfeiffer, equilibrium is the most important parameter to consider when creating a new pastry item. The co-founder of The French Pastry School is convinced that anyone can make pastry combining ingredients and components, but that it takes time and work to find the right balance of flavors, textures, and simplicity.

The experienced pastry chef ensures that tomorrow’s customers are more informed and look for tasty, fresh, and healthy products like this Cider Infused Caramelized Apple Tart with Grapefruit Jam, of which we detail the recipe below.

Cider infused caramelized apple

Yield two 9” tarts

• 7 u Braeburn apples
• 75 g butter 82% fat
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 1/2 u vanilla bean
• 35 gCalvados liquor (optional)
• 2 g fine sea salt
• 250 g organic fresh apple juice
• 250 g Organic apple cider

Make a caramel with the sugar on medium heat in a medium sauce pan using a high heat rubber spatula. Deglaze with the soft butter. Add the apple juice in 3 additions. Add the salt, calvados and vanilla bean split in half. Peel, cut in half and core the apples. Fill 10 ramequin dishes or disposable aluminum cupcake cups halfway with the cooking juice. Put a ½ apple in each cup and cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour 40 minutes at 146°C/295°F and let cool for 30 minutes.Take the apples out of the cups and drain them on the flat side on a wire rack for 12 hours in the refrigerator.

Hazelnut Praline Paste

• 100 g granulated sugar
• 65 g water
• 1/4 u vanilla bean
• 150 g whole skinned hazelnuts

The hazelnuts skins lend a bitter taste so it is better to remove it by toasting the hazelnuts in a 325◦F oven for 8 minutes. As they come out of the oven, rub the nuts in a towel or over a sifter until most of the skins fall off. Keep the hazelnuts warm and cook the sugar, vanilla and water to 115ºC/239ºF in a sauce pan. Remove the pan from the heat and add the warm nuts. Stir the nuts and sugar syrup until the mixture begins to sand. The syrup will crystallize and look sandy. Place the pan back on medium heat and continue cooking until the sugar melts and caramelizes evenly around the nuts. If your sugar starts to smoke, the heat is too high and you will need to reduce it. Turn off the heat when the nuts are roasted in the center and the caramel is golden brown. Quickly pour the nuts out onto a Silpat silicone mat and let them cool completely. Break them up in chunks and blend them in a food processor until it turns into a paste. Reserve in an airtight container in a cool place.

Hazelnut Financier

• 132 g confectioners’ sugar
• 48 g skinless hazelnut powder
• 48 g cake flour
• 1 g baking powder
• 72 g butter 82% fat
• 132 g fresh egg whites
• 12 g hazelnut praline paste
• 1 g pink grapefruit zests
• 5 g hazelnut oil
• 2 g fine sea salt
• 1/2 u scraped vanilla beanr
• 12 g Honey

Sift the confectioners’ sugar, hazelnut powder, flour and baking powder. Cook the butter slowly in a small sauce pan while stirring until it turn light brown. Mix the egg whites with the praline paste, pink grapefruit zest, hazelnut oil, sea salt, vanilla bean and honey. Mix with the dry ingredients. Add the strained hot butter. Reserve in a mixing bowl covered with plastic wrap for 3 hours in the refrigerator.
Note: the hazelnut powder can be substituted with almond powder.

Hazelnut Sablé Dough

• 120 g butter 82% fat
• 200 g cake flour
• 2 g sea salt
• 25 g hazelnut powder
• 75 g confectioners’ sugar
• 55 g fresh egg yolks
• 2 g vanilla extract

Mix the butter with the cake flour and salt in a stand mixer using a paddle attachment until it gets a sandy consistency. Add the hazelnut powder and confectioner’s sugar. Gradually add the egg yolks and vanilla extract. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours.
Note: the hazelnut powder can be substituted with almond powder.

Pink Grapefruit and Grenadine Jam

• 250 g water
• 1 g fine sea salt
• 15 g pink grapefruit zest
• 20 g granulated sugar
• 3,75 g pectin
• 25 g pomegranate juice
• 140 g organic pink grapefruit segments
• 35 g sugar

Boil the water and salt in a medium sauce pan. Boil the zests in salted water for 2 minutes, and then rinse with cold water. Mix the pectin with the 20grams of sugar. Heat the pomegranate juice and grapefruit segments at 40°C/104°F. Add the pectin/ sugar mix and boil for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and zest. Cook for about 2 minutes or until thick. Transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate until needed.
Note: This type of jam or a similar type of citrus can be purchased in a gourmet store should you need to.

Montage

• 40 g skinless hazelnut powder
• 40 g skinless crushed hazelnuts

Cut the dough in half and roll each piece to a 2mm/1/16” thickness. Line a 9” tart pan with each piece and dock the surface with a fork. Place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Place a piece of parchment paper inside the tart and fill with pie weights. Bake at 163°C/325°F for 25 minutes and let cool. Remove the parchment paper and pie weights and let cool. Spread 80g of the grapefruit jam on the bottom of each pre-baked tart shell using a small offset spatula. Sprinkle 20g of roasted hazelnut powder on it. Pipe 170g of the financier mix in each tart shell, and then spread evenly with a small offset spatula. Sprinkle 20g of roasted hazelnut powder on it. Arrange 7 half cooked apples flat side down in each tart. Sprinkle 20g of crushed hazelnuts on each tart and dust confectioners’ sugar on them. Bake at 163°C/325°F for 35 min, let cool on a wire rack and un-mold.
Note: The hazelnuts and hazelnut powder can be substituted with almonds.

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